Lebanese Eatery

LEBANON 🇱🇧

COVID-19 UPDATE: Takeout only, which isn’t much of a change from their usual business model. Online ordering is available at lebaneseeatery.com, and will reduce wait times.

 

EDITOR'S NOTE: Written by Joseph Gessert, photographed by Liv Dillon.

 

Until last year Lebanese Eatery was a lunch counter tucked in the back of a bustling supermarket. The market is now gone, but thankfully the eatery remains, serving some of Staten Island’s most well-executed Middle Eastern food.

 

All of the usual Lebanese mezzeh are on offer, and everything is excellent, but extra love is put into the baked goods. Mini lamb pies ($1.50) are seasoned with red pepper and yoghurt, while chicken pies (also $1.50) are flavored more mildly. Large meat pies (beef, $3.50) are a meal in themselves. All are best supplemented with a side of toum for dipping ($4.50 large). Toum is the Lebanese cousin to aioli, an emulsion of garlic, oil, and lemon juice. The emphasis is on the garlic, and on Lebanese Eatery’s menu as on many US menus, it is sold as “garlic sauce.”

 

 

Also great with toum is stuffed squash ($2.99). The skill of Lebanese Eatery’s kitchen is evident in the barely-there thinness of the squash, which has been meticulously hollowed out and filled with a blend of rice and spices, then cooked in a tomato broth. As with other Lebanese restaurants, vegetarians and vegans can eat well here. However, the main business at Lebanese Eatery is in meat, and their meat shawarma ($9.99 for a wrap) combines beef and lamb off the spit with perfect proportions of pickle, veggie, and bread.

 

Nearby Todt Hill is home to a well-established Palestinian community, and Lebanese Eatery branches out into some Palestinian dishes as well as their Lebanese mainstays. Chicken maqluba (“upside-down,” the one-pot rice dish that is Palestine’s national dish) is an occasional special, but was not on offer during a recent weekday visit. Also available is kunafa ($4.50), the baked filo-and-cheese dessert that is omnipresent in the West Bank and served in volume at Bay Ridge’s Nablus Sweets. Other Palestinian dishes are available on Lebanese Eatery’s catering menu and as occasional specials.

 

There is nothing revolutionary happening here menu-wise, but it is all done really well, and served with obvious pride by a familial staff. As the menu states, “all food homemade by chef (mom),” and her cooking is definitely worth a trip out of your way. And then again, perhaps in a borough that’s been so hostile at times to immigrants, proudly serving authentic food from far away is revolutionary in itself. Regardless, the cooking is fantastic, and worth a trip from anywhere.

 

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ELM PARK Staten Island

1686 Forest Avenue

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Kamil's Lebanese Cuisine

LEBANON 🇱🇧

[COVID-19 UPDATE: Kamil's is open for takeout and delivery. Their large, well-designed back garden is now open for outdoor dining.]

Kamil's, which has always had a great following for indoor and outdoor dining and hookah, has adapted to 2020 fairly well by the look of things. Opening up the front door, you may not believe this, as the interior dining room is now a ghost town. But come in the evening and their large back garden is full of people enjoying their meals outdoors in Clifton.

For those still not comfortable with that, or preferring to eat at home, the takeout operation is going strong and works quite efficiently. Call in your order and it will be ready in 15 to 20 minutes, grabbed at the cashier and getting you on your way.

This was the strategy for a recent takeout order that picked up an array of dishes that made for three or four meals over the course of the next few days.

As seen above, the meal centered around an order of Kamil's mixed grill ($21.95), a platter of grilled lamb chops as well as lamb, beef, and chicken kebabs all served with rice, pickles, and side of toum to slather across everything. The rice is full of more garlic, and a lot of butter, and could not be more decadent. Each piece of meat is marinaded and grilled quite well.

As with any respectable Lebanese meal, there were cold meze for dipping. The sour yogurt lebneh with garlic ($5.95, above, bottom left), sweet roasted Aleppo pepper muhammara ($5.95, above, top center), and chickpea-overload mousabaha ($4.95, above, middle-right) made a formidable combination, covering all the bases.

An order of arayes with sujok & cheese ($6.95, above, bottom right) rounded out the meal and was delicious, although for next time it is recommended to pull this out of the order and eat immediately.

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CLIFTON New Jersey
1489 Main Avenue

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Mashawi Grill

LEBANON 🇱🇧

Recently Mashawi changed its name slightly so that "Lebanese Kabob" was replaced simply with "Grill" and "Mediterranean & Conscious Kitchen" added underneath. What this means in practice is that the focus has shifted a bit away from, ironically; mashawi, which is an Arabic term for anything you can grill or barbecue. Technically this can include vegetables but it is usually taken to be meats.

The restaurant has always had a long list of fresh smoothies and juices and this looks to keep getting bigger as they focus more on health. But meat lovers and cholesterol addicts don't let this all scare you, it is easy to put together a nice Lebanese meal here no matter what your desires. The daily special plates seem to have disappeared, but the array of mezze and kabobs is still alive and well.

Often when you find muhammara ($6, above) on a menu the restaurant reluctantly tells you that unfortunately it is not available "today" so this was ordered with caution. This was not the case here and a good rendition of the red pepper and walnut dip arrived to be scooped up generously with pita.

In the mood for shawerma but hesitant to order it because no spit was in sight, a closer look at the menu reveals they grill this and other sandwich meats on a charcoal grill. As you can imagine this method of preparation fits the healthy model, but it was intriguing nonetheless. A charcoal grilled chicken shawerma wrap ($7, below) comes served nicely with both a spicy pepper oil and a garlicky tahini.

While the fat drippings from the spit were certainly missed, the sandwich is good in its own respect. Washed down with the excellent fresh lemonade ($5) made with mint, watermelon, and pomegranate, rejuvenation was eminent.

A plate of five warak ennab ($4, below) was recommended by the counterman here and did not disappoint. These little cigars might not look like much, but the Lebanese-style vegetarian stuffed grape leaves were a perfect complement to the meal. One disappeared before the photo, don't worry your math is not faulty.

It is often easy to find your way to a large and probably unhealthy mixed grill platter in Middle Eastern restaurants, but Mashawi Grill was an unexpected detour from this type of meal. What they are doing is easy to appreciate, especially for those that come prepared for a fresh and light lunch or dinner.

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GRANITEVILLE Staten Island
956 Richmond Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

[CLOSED] Kababgi Grill

LEBANON 🇱🇧

[UPDATE: CLOSED]

The southeast corner of 77th Street and 5th Avenue in Bay Ridge has changed quite a few hands and names over the last couple years. When it originally went on the to-do list, it was named Adana Mayla, then became Beit Sitte, then finally Marouch. All three Turkish places did not survive, and now Lebanese-owned Kababgi Grill has arrived.

The first visit here came during the final days of Ramadan and the place was full of smoke as they prepared a large catering order for someone at sundown. An industrial-sized fan was trying to clear the air and heat, but to no avail. Luckily they had a couple tables set up outside and the weather was cooperating.

The menu here reads slightly more interesting than the generic "middle eastern" list usually found around town, with a couple items even specifically Lebanese.

Even though listed in sandwiches, the chicken shawarma plate ($12.50, above) comes with rice and salad instead. It was noticed on this Ramadan daytime visit that the shawarma spit looked dry and lifeless, but somehow it still could not be resisted. Unfortunately it proved to be the case, but on another visit after the month of fasting, the restaurant seemed to find their groove. On both occasions the side of garlic sauce called toum was relied on heavily.

When asking about their Lebanese makanik, a sausage appetizer ground with pomegranate molasses and lemon juice, the conversation was steered towards soujok ($8.50, below) instead. This spicier sibling of makanik is made with bell peppers, onions, chilis, and tomato remoulade and comes out quite spicy.

For chicken lovers, the shish tawook sandwich ($8.50, below) is a slightly tastier version than the shawarma. The fresh pitas here are wonderful carriers of any kebabs, and stuffed with fresh pickled vegetables and more garlic sauce.

Because I ordered ayran on each visit, the proprietor asked if I was Turkish. "We are from Lebanon" came the reply as the pride in his country and food was visible on his face.

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BAY RIDGE Brooklyn

7701 5th Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Beirut Restaurant

LEBANON 🇱🇧

The city of Clifton, New Jersey makes something of a "C" when viewed on the map, neatly surrounding Passaic, with the top of the "C" dividing Passaic from Paterson. It is in this north wedge that Paterson's Middle Eastern character slowly phases out into the more Latin American character of Passaic. Beirut Restaurant is in this zone, just south of the Garden State Parkway overpass.

Although the front of the restaurant makes it look modest, the place has an expanded back dining room behind the smaller front space. This back area has a stage for live music and seems well used for hookah while bands are not playing. A couple groups were enjoying hookah and meals in the back when we entered, so we asked to be seated in the brighter front area next to a window.

The tables have white tablecloths, giving everything a slightly formal feel, although service is casual. The menu is just one page and focused, based on the quality of other food it can be assumed that everything they choose to cook is done well.

An array of meze were ordered, all of which were supremely satisfying, including the smooth hummus ($5.95, above). It is full of zest from lemon juice, and eloquently presented like the rest with a center swirl containing more bits that beg to be mixed. All the meze tasted freshly made that day.

The labneh ($5.95) goes excellently with the meats.

The muhamara ($5.95, below) was also delightful, slightly different than most using pine nuts instead of walnuts this time.

There was a baba ghanouj ($6.95, below) connoisseur eating with me on this day, and the version here was able to pass the strict standards. The eggplant dish had fresh tomatoes and olive oil in the middle to mix.

To complement the focus on meze, a plate of shish tawook ($14.95, below) was thrown in for good measure. Perfectly tender and juicy chunks of marinated chicken are served with thin pita and a garlic sauce. This container was pushed to the side in favor of combining the meat with the meze, especially labneh.

If you are still unsatisfied with your Middle Eastern intake after a meal here, make your way to Istanbul Food Bazaar across the street, a store with a meat counter, packaged cheeses, dry goods, and snacks. Just be careful crossing the busy street.

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CLIFTON New Jersey

1543 Main Avenue

Al-Basha Restaurant

LEBANON 🇱🇧
PALESTINE 🇵🇸
SAUDI ARABIA 🇸🇦

Al-Basha is already a neighborhood favorite, no secret to anyone in Paterson. Along with the many middle eastern families and business lunches we saw on a Tuesday, locals of all stripes were coming in to enjoy what we discovered was a fantastic restaurant. The awning reads "Middle Eastern & Lebanese Cuisine" while the owner hails from Palestine. Their menu runs the gamut.

They were a little overwhelmed at the peak of lunch time, but this may have been due to a surprise visit from the health department that some of the employees had to cater to in the kitchen. Regardless, they handled it well and were always friendly. Our meal was only delayed slightly, and well worth the wait.

Lunch seems like a great time to come here, as they have a daily rotating specials menu that has interesting items each day. The national dishes of many countries of the Levant make an appearance. On Mondays, Palestinian dajaj musakhan, Tuesday has Saudi kabsa and Egyptian mloukhieh, Friday has Jordanian mansaf. While not national dishes, Yemeni mendi and Palestinian makloubeh show up on different days. While these versions may not adhere strictly to the cooking styles of each of those countries, you get the point. I actually looked at AirBnB listings in the area, thinking I could stay for a week and try everything.

Before our mains arrived, a plate of pickled turnips came, along with lovely bitter green olives. Seen above is also our plates of tabbouleh, one of which was not ordered. Generosity was not in question throughout our meal.

The restaurant has a fresh juice bar at the front and my ayran (below) came in one of their cups.

To get a general sense of the restaurant's "regional" appeal, we ordered one relatively unadventurous and ubiquitous plate, the beef shawerma ($11.99, below) which comes standard with hummus, baba ghanouj, and Turkish salad. Even without tasting anything else, we would have known the place was special. The hummus is drop dead delicious, smooth and glorious in every way. Also smooth and creamy, the baba ghanouj has a slight tang that might be mistaken for sour cream but certainly could not be.

The meat might have taken second fiddle to these meze, but even it warrants praise. The knifed-off slices from the spit come with charred crispy ends and plenty of juiciness inside. The marinade is wonderful. I'm running out of superlatives with an even more delicious plate still to come!

Tuesday specials had three options, but I was most struck by the kabsa ($11.99, below), a dish named for the rice and spices and served throughout the region. It's origins are in Saudi Arabia, where it is considered the national dish.

The rice is infused with plenty of cumin and even pine nuts for a slight crunchiness that is excellent. They serve the dish with chicken here, a full half bird. The spices used are also superlative heavy, and the skin comes crisp. The only problem is getting pieces of that skin in every bite, but even without the meat of the bird is somehow so moist throughout. A really amazing dish.

I specifically remember the words "Holy Shit!" coming from my mouth after the first few bites.

[UPDATE: A couple photos from a January 2017 visit]

Al-Basha mazzah $15.99 around eggplant salad $6.99 (center)

If you have never tried mhamarah (above, bottom center), a hot pepper dish using Aleppo peppers and originally from that city, please try it here. It is divine.

Al-Basha small platter $17.99

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PATERSON New Jersey

1076 Main Street

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Karam

LEBANON 🇱🇧

Karam has been around for ages, doing swift takeout business to the Middle Eastern communities of Bay Ridge. I never seemed to have a camera on hand when I have stopped by in the past, but took three recent visits to remedy this. Based on the frequency of customers and the beauty of the spits in the window (below), you get a good sense that your mouth is going to have an excellent time here.

Walking in to this small space is an assault on the nose, as the spices coming from behind the counter really are heavenly. A crowded refrigerated display case also shows off the wonders of Middle Eastern cuisine, with fresh kebabs ready to be grilled, as well as all the cold appetizers one could wish for.

Karam has been written up in a couple places, best known for its appealing sujok ($7.50, below), which includes merguez-like sausages and a good helping of pickled vegetables, and plenty of garlic sauce. It comes wrapped in a toasty pita and the combination of tastes is certainly a winner.

Another favorite whenever I dine Lebanese is of course the chicken schwarma ($7, below), with cuts from the spit above and more of the pickled vegetables and garlic sauce. The cuts of meat drip in their own juices, and the sandwich falls apart long before you can finish. Perfection.

For a little crispiness, and to taste one of the most ubiquitous of Middle Eastern spices, try the zaatar pie ($1.75, below), which goes a long way with a portion of hommous ($5)

A fantastic way to sort it all out and try a good portion of the cold appetizers is to asked for a mixed plate. My latest attempt at this was rewarded with the plate below, which included grape leaves, hommous, babaghanouj, eggplant salad, Italian beans, and roasted cauliflower.

The people working here are also very pleasant, making the whole experience accommodating and friendly. You would not expect anything less from Middle Eastern hospitality, but it is definitely a good break from New York City nonetheless.

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BAY RIDGE Brooklyn

8519 4th Avenue

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Al Nour Food

LEBANON 🇱🇧

[UPDATE: The name has changed from Cedars Meat House to Al Nour Food. The meat market and restaurant are still the same.]

For a good portion of the halal eating community of Astoria, Cedars seems like a hub for fresh meats and groceries. The meat counter in the back draws a steady stream of customers, while the front serves prepared foods and sandwiches.

My first order at any Lebanese restaurant is the chicken schwarma ($4.50, below), almost always a delicious and very inexpensive item. The version here could stand a healthier dose of the buttery garlic sauce toumeh, while the pickles need a little more kick. That being said, the sandwich is definitely delicious good, and well worth the small rising price. The bread here is a bit thinner than usual and nicely toasted, adding a crispness to each bite. [As denoted by strikeout text, the standards are changing a bit, as is the price].

I wanted to try a few more of the items here, so I ordered a vegetable dish and something from the steam table. As has happened in the past, I was very disappointed by the roasted cauliflower, which is served cold and terribly limp. You can ask for this to be microwaved, but that only solves half of your problems.

The steam table is not kept warm enough, so the okra and rice dish I gravitated towards was a bit tepid. This made the whole thing less enjoyable, despite its nice aromas and spices. The sparse chunks of beef are on the dry side, but the soft okra can be so nice with a scoop of the sauce and rice. I am not exactly sure how the pricing works for this, as nothing was weighed, but on the menu reading "Grilled per lb" is an array of items with the most expensive being $10.99/lb. The plate below was much cheaper than that.

In other news, did you know that toumeh had its own website?

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ASTORIA Queens
41-08 30th Avenue

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Souk El Shater

LEBANON 🇱🇧

El Shater used to be a beloved Lebanese spot in Sunnyside, but closed fairly recently and sadness abounded. Thankfully it branched into two separate spots that now compete for customers affections with delicious fair. The namesake has moved a block away to Queens Boulevard and rebranded itself as Souk El Shater.

As I waited for a dining companion, I was able to see a bustle of activity in front of the storefront as the sun set. Women in headscarves helped each other with directions, went inside to buy fresh ingredients and groceries. The meat on the spits near the window is fairly sparse by 7pm, but there was still enough for our order, thankfully.

The thing that jumps out at me immediately about this place is the fact that they are serving up high-quality sandwiches for $3.50 a pop. I hope this is not just an introductory price at opening, but am hopeful they will last at least a while as their menus and custom signage has these prices fixed.

The chicken schwarma ($3.50, below) is my usual go-to at a Lebanese takeout, as I am always excited to try a place's homemade garlic sauce. The sandwich here is not as loaded as some, but an excellent value for the price. The meat is deliciously spiced and the sauce top notch.

They were out of ingredients for the fattouch platter, so I ended up just getting a side of tabouli ($5.99/lb, below), which was very good and fresh.

The pies and savory pastries looked a little warn, but it was evening and I am sure these are very good and right out of the oven earlier in the day. All in all, the residents of Sunnyside must be ecstatic to have their reliable Lebanese back in the neighborhood.

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SUNNYSIDE Queens
43-03 Queens Boulevard

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Moustache

LEBANON

A lot of times my friends will ask me for recommendations in the West Village, and more often than not I shrug and admit it's really not my territory. Spotted Pig? Yeah, but it's off the top of the charts of my preferred price range. Corner Bistro? Sure... but not exactly international. The only truly international experience I venture for is Myers of Keswick, which is far from a restaurant.

It is definitely no secret, but I had yet to try Moustache's West Village location until recently, but found it a good, cheap-ish location. A group of people can definitely go enjoy an array of dishes for under $20 each.

The pizzas are tasty, but it should be noted to stay away from the dull seafood pitza, which also happens to be the most expensive at $12. The lahambajin ($9) is ground lamb with onion, tomato, parsley and spices and probably is the most essential of the group.

Of course any Middle Eastern meal would be lacking something without a sprinkling of appetizers. The babaganough and hummus ($5/each, below) excel from the pack.

The service is a bit pushy as the place tends to fill up by 7.30 or so and a crowd waits on the sidewalk for tables. The small dining room doesn't seemed especially claustrophobic though, with high ceilings and minimal decor. Order a hot mint tea ($2) and enjoy the view back into the kitchen as your meal is prepared and brought out.

WEST VILLAGE Manhattan

90 Bedford Street