Sami's Kabab House

AFGHANISTAN 🇦🇫

Sami's kind of lives in its own universe. Around the corner from busier 36th Avenue in Astoria, the spot is unassuming and the only glimpse of what all the fuss might be about is when waiting people are milling around outside the shop during busy nights. Inside, the dining room is much more formal and modern than other Afghan restaurants in town but still friendly and welcoming.

About one third of the space is taken by the kitchen, which runs from front to back along one wall, while the rest is dining tables. The wall opposite the kitchen is covered in beautiful imported fabrics that add a lot of warmth to the space if the smells from the kitchen were not already making you feel good.

A mixture of customers come here from Astoria and all over the city, drawn by rave reviews in important papers and online reviews. It makes itself very "user-friendly" for those unfamiliar with the cuisine, and makes a good entry point for anyone interested in learning more about the food and sampling their many kababs.

Before the large portions of meat, go for a plate of the lovely aushak ($5, above and below), vegetable dumplings filled with leeks and scallions. The thin wrappers would make Chinese grandmas proud, that is until the whole plate is drowned in a layer of their garlic mint yogurt sauce and then a lamb gravy.

They also have non-veg versions of this called mantu ($7, not shown), but I find meals here always get intensely meaty when the entrees arrive and think these aushak make for a more well-rounded meal.

My favorite of the chicken options is the Afghani kabab ($13.50, below), dark thigh meat that might be the most succulent piece of meat in the city. It is amazingly tender and juicy and tastes even better than it looks. They do breast as well and it is also surprisingly juicy, but the thigh is just better.

Most kababs and other entrees come with fragrant and wonderful basmati rice, but also make sure to upgrade your rice with qabuli for 50 cents, a sweet mixture of raisins and carrots that goes well with everything. This would also be a good time to explore the condiment dish that comes with four options in a tray like you see at noodle shops in Thailand. As I have said in previous Afghan meals, the availability of unlimited yogurt is a boon to my meal.

The other jars are filled with a red and green sauce, the latter of which is spicy, and some pickled peppers.

A plate of lamb sabzi chalao ($15.50, above) was also very tender, and is the same stew or gravy that was covering the dumplings. This is accompanied by a side of tasty spinach full of herbs and spices.

Salad arrives at the table with an entree purchase and usually a basket of Afghan naan does although not on this last visit. Both of these things are good for experimenting with the condiments as well. Also ask for a cup of the cardamom-infused Afghan green tea to accompany your meal.

Complimentary salad.

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ASTORIA Queens
35-57 Crescent Street

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Chabba BBQ

AFGHANISTAN 🇦🇫

Years ago when Chabba first found a spot in my notes, it was completely Afghani, one of two spots on a strip full of South Asian joints in a South Asian neighborhood. Bengalis and Pakistanis would wander past and the place did not get much business. I noticed some time ago that the menu adapted to reflect this and had less desire to go, but recently made it for the first time.

When interest was showed in the Afghani page of the menu, the friendly proprietor seemed to perk up and was excited to showcase the reason the restaurant came to be in the first place. Later when questioned, she said the neighborhood demanded more South Asian tastes on the menu and this forced her to add the small lunch buffet and greatly shorten the unpopular Afghani items.

To be honest, the place was still not very crowded during a weekday lunch at 12:30. Two men were eating at a small table in front when I entered, speaking quietly together. I was seated in a large empty back room used for banquets and parties with bright red upholstered seats. Was this where they made their money?

The buffet itself did not look very appetizing, and was not self-serve. After inquiring about different cuts of meat (the Afghani portion of the menu was entirely meat and kebabs), it was settled that the lamb chops, the most expensive item, were the highlight of the show. Before they were ready, the woman brought out a complimentary bowl of fruit salad (above) that seemed just a bit healthier than the macaroni salad your uncle brings to the July 4th party.

The lamb chops ($12.99, below) come on an (almost) sizzling platter, over a bed of onions. The reddish hue and nice spice reminds of tikka, and all the tender meat is easily removed from the bone. Afghan rice ($4.99, below) is sold separately but worth adding, the sweetness of raisins somehow permeating the brown basmati.

This specific rice, kabuli pulao, is the de facto national dish of Afghanistan, served with most meals when it can be afforded. The green mint chutney that arrives at the table pairs very well with it.

After the meat arrived, I was asked if I would like the "Afghan sauce." Of course this was not turned down, and turned out to be a creamy white sauce that was terrific with the lamb. If this does not make it to your table automatically, make sure to ask for it.

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KENSINGTON Brooklyn

786 Coney Island Avenue

New Bahktar Afghan Halal Kababs & Gyro King

AFGHANISTAN 🇦🇫

Service and availability were still coming together when I dined here, but with mainly Latin American options in the neighborhood, New Bakhtar's "Grand Opening" is good news for this northern section of Richmond Hill. To demonstrate my point right of the bat was the non-existence of hot tea, which I was in the mood for on a rainy day. The lady just shrugged, seemed apologetic, and offered to boil some water for me.

No matter, a hot soup would warm me up, so I went for the lamb kurma ($9.99, below). While waiting, I enjoyed Arabic television with the other patrons, watching what appeared to be election results of small races in Pakistan. Two men in a back booth were given their takeout orders eventually and a group of burqa-clad women in another finished and left with their children. When my order came out, I was the only one left in the restaurant on an off-hour between lunch and dinner.

The broth of the kurma was oily and thin, in a good way, very rich. The dish comes with a plate of brown rice and fresh-baked Afghan bread (which was probably fresher during lunch). Both were good pairs for the broth, and not a single drop was left by the end of my meal. The tender lamb was so fresh I could imagine the creature must have been alive earlier that morning.

With a bigger group, I would definitely tackle a bunch of the kababs on offer, which seem to be the centerpiece of the operation from the impression I get from both awning and menu. All the dishes seem to be around $10 and come with the sides mentioned and a salad, quite a good deal for portions tough to finish.

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RICHMOND HILL, Queens

110-23 Jamaica Avenue

Balkh Shish Kabab House

AFGHANISTAN 🇦🇫

The neon outline of Afghanistan greets people on the street, and if you can squint past this glow you will find the metal grill with all the kababs getting prepared. It's all the invitation I needed to walk in.

The interior is decorated with more homages to Afghanistan, carpets, and a large map showing the provinces (look for the namesake Balkh near Uzbekistan in the north). Also is a hand-written sign telling you what not to do, the most important being the consumption of alcohol in this restaurant.

I did not have to go far into the menu to find an array of items that I wanted to order, the appetizers section had no weak links. On a cold night, starting with the aashebride Balkh ($3.50, above) is a fine way to warm up. It's described as "Afghan spaghetti," and is a simple, hearty soup. There might have been three lamb balls in the bowl, but the broth shines brighter anyhow.

I can never resist a dumpling, no matter what the country of origin, so I ordered both the manto ($6.50, above, meat) and aushack ($5.50, below, scallions). Both came well covered in a spiced curry and a dribble of yogurt, but a handy mustard squeeze bottle filled with more was placed on the table when they were brought out. I was thinking I should make my own yogurt bottle to take with me to future restaurants, as so many things can be drenched in it successfully.

The biggest surprise of this array might have been the bolanee kadu ($4.50, below), fried pumpkin turnovers that were had such a lovely sweet puree inside the thin pastry. It also came with a yogurt dip, which was not necessary but still good.

Not to leave without at least one kabab in a kabab house, I ordered the keema ($5, below) a la carte with some rice. The beef is marinated and minced with herbs and spices and onions. On another visit I would stick to ordering as many varieties of kababs as possible to try them all, but just did not have the stomach to eat so much this time.

Fully stuffed by the end, it was nice to see the rather gruff staff finally smile. A customer had yelled at them when I was seated, so I think they were still coming out of that shock, but knowing this table was satisfied at least was some consolation for the night. The place got even friendlier as another group of Afghans walked in, greeted the owner/cook and took their seats, greeting friends. I should have stayed to spy on what they ordered, but maybe the next time.

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ASTORIA Queens
23-10 31st Street


Map of Eat the World NYC:

Bahar Masala Restaurant

AFGHANISTAN 🇦🇫

A tandoor oven might dominate the restaurant when you walk in if it was not for all the purple neon that lines the windows and beautiful old carpets that decorate the walls. I had some time to look around as I had arrived early and was waiting for a friend. The traditional Afghan green tea ($1.50, below) and pita bread kept me busy while I enjoyed the room and all the activity of the restaurant. Despite being one of two patrons, the dining room was pervaded with sounds of cooking from the kitchen and the male workers were walking in and out constantly.

I was offered a picture menu while I waited, but refused it in shyness, trying to act as if I knew everything on the menu already. I don't know that photos would have helped in the end, but it would have been fun to see anyway. What we did decide on was from very complete (and mouth-watering) descriptions that came under each selection. The sabzymast ($5.95, below) is an appetizer of spinach, cooked with onions, garlic, and probably many other spices and herbs, all mixed with a yogurt sauce. We were not sure how to go at it and ordered a side dish of white rice.

Another appetizer called fesenjon ($5.95, below) was probably our favorite dish of the day. Tempted by the pomegranate sauce and walnut, the chicken was also sweet and sour, and the dish had a sharp but delicious taste. We finished off this plate first and were both eyeing the last bites but trying not to be rude.

Before coming, I was most anxious to try the items listed in the "traditional Afghan pastas" section of the menu, thinking I had never had anything like them. While that remains true, we both felt like the dish we ordered called ashi gooshti ($9.95, above) was somewhat of a letdown. The homemade noodles were so well-cooked that they had little taste and almost melted in your mouth, while the ground beef, chickpeas, and yogurt sauce on top lacked the kick of the other dishes we had already consumed.

DITMAS PARK Brooklyn

984 Coney Island Avenue