Çka ka Qëllu

ALBANIA 🇦🇱

It has all been leading to this. First came Tradita, a brick oven pizza joint a bit more than 30 minutes walk north into Norwood. It's menu satisfied the pizza cravings of an obsessed city while slipping in some traditional Albanian and Kosovar items. But Çka ka Qëllu was always the dream, a full modern restaurant highlighting everything about this proud cuisine. The name is an offer and a desire at the same time, inspired by the feeling that giving your last piece of bread is much more honorable than eating it yourself.

But do not be afraid, the offerings here speak of bounty, a one-page menu lays these out easily. Besides the grilled meats that are most famous from the Balkans, another focus here are dishes called tavë, named for the clay vessel they are served in. A version of this dish with lamb and yogurt is considered the national dish of Albania, but tavë kosi is unfortunately not offered yet. There are six other kinds though, all of which made it hard to narrow down to one.

Muskujë viçi në tavë ($14.50, above) is the veal option, a thick section of pure meat in a savory reduction with peppers.

You will see many items used for centuries like this old tavë dish on the walls of the restaurant. Tools and decorations, cookware and clothing conjure up the past. Even the music follows the same beat.

It was hard to sample much while dining alone, but the pickled pepper appetizers seemed like a good bet not to be too filling. Spec n'turshi ($2.50, below) is pickled very sharply in the traditional Albanian way while spec me mazë n'turshi ($3.50, below back) is covered in creamy white cheese.

Both are crunchy and very enjoyable to eat, although it is hard to recommend against the cheesy version.

Return visits will of course knock off plates of grilled meats and more versions of the tavë. It is exciting to see a Balkan menu arrive with a more diverse array of the cuisine available there.

[UPDATE: The return visit happened faster than expected, with a group of 8 hungry people. Rating upgraded, photos below:]

Tradita salad $12

Fli $7

Tradita mixed grill platter x 2 $19 x 2

Pasul with smoked sausage $14

Kacamak $11

Sarma $13.50

Baklav and sheqer pare $5.50 each

Albanian coffee $4

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BELMONT Bronx

2321 Hughes Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Dukagjini Burektorja

ALBANIA 🇦🇱
KOSOVO 🇽🇰

It might be too early to say 2011 was a great year, but being invited into the kitchen of an Albanian mother and daughter cooking burek is a pretty good way to start. In between a small photo studio and halal meat shop on Lydig Avenue in the Bronxdale neighborhood (of the Bronx), Dukagjini is owned by an Albanian Kosovar but operated by two lovely Albanian women who obviously know all their customers and produce some fine burek.

Balkans double park their cars outside and run in for a slice. The walls and windows are covered with posters advertising various events going on in the community. There is a painting of the owner's restaurant (also called Dukagjini) in Kosovo. Everything just speaks of it being a hub for the area's Albanian residents.

On a recent visit, I finished my burek and espresso and got enough nerve to ask if I could take a photo of the women at the counter. This opened the floodgates of hospitality, the door swung open and I was allowed to step into the kitchen to meet mom and see the preparations of uncooked burek. Mom (above) was lovely, greased up to her elbows making the dough and happy to show off her creations. Her daughter (below) was equally proud and gave me a look into the oven full of all varieties available.

Before all this went down, I was able to enjoy a lovely meat slice (below), a cup of the freshest yogurt ($1.50) you will ever try, and a small espresso ($2). The menu is limited to these three things, although you do have the choice of meat, cheese, or spinach for your burek, all of which are $4.

The flaky goodness of a burek is common to all countries that make them, but an Albanian version is somehow less greasy. The meat is good, the cheesy slices have more cheese, and the spinach slices seem to be infused with dill.

There are only five tables here, but it seems like most people take their food and run so it is easy to get a seat. It's fun to sit back with your food and drink and watch people come in and out. The Bronx has something very special here at Dukagjini.

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PELHAM PARKWAY Bronx
758 Lydig Avenue

Kosova Deli

KOSOVO 🇽🇰

I wandered off the Bronx's main "Little Italy" street and into this small shop simply out of curiosity, but wandered out carrying a small jar of homemade ajvar ($3.50), a red pepper based spread that brought back good memories of travel in the Balkans. This particular version was made in Macedonia.

The awning shows the flag of the self-proclaimed Republic of Kosova, which was formed by Albanians in the province in the 1990's who have always wanted to secede. The flag is the same as Albania's and gives a hint of the desire, and reflects the community here in Belmont. 

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BELMONT Bronx
2326 Arthur Avenue