Royal Garden Tbilisi

GEORGIA 🇬🇪

[COVID-19 UPDATE: Besides the couple tables in front, used mostly for coffee and lunch on the weekday of this visit, the restaurant has a covered outdoor space in the garden that can host quite a few people. Customers wishing for ample spacing and appropriate mask usage by staff and other customers might wish to avoid this place.]

On the few occasions that meals were taken at We Are Georgian, the previous tenant at this Kings Highway address, the small bakery and restaurant had always impressed. Last year, well before stay at home orders, a walk in the area had noticed that a new restaurant had unfortunately taken its place, but plans to give it a shot were made.

More than halfway through 2020, with outdoor dining in full bloom throughout the five boroughs, it seemed like the appropriate time to come back. Photos online showed a new backyard with plenty of seats and even a small stage for live music, which was all ready for action for a Friday evening that was fully booked a day in advance. No one was around for lunch though, the perfect time to sample the kitchen on short notice.

Even at lunch, and with a lack of customers, the music will be on in the garden as the soundtrack to everyone getting things set up for the busy night. Grab a table or a lounge-style seat and take a look through the menu. There are no descriptions for eaters less familiar with the names of Georgian foods, so either stick to what you know or start Googling.

One item that needs no introduction and is usually familiar to anyone that has eaten Georgian even just once is their dumpling. The khinkali (above) are listed as $2 per piece, but an order must contain at least six, so any dreams of ordering just one each as to be able to sample more dishes do not come to fruition. Regardless, performing such an abomination might get you thrown out of the place anyways.

Inside the thick wrapper, along with minced meats are just of hint of spiciness and a high level of herbs. It is delicious, although not juicy like most. The proper technique is to grab the thick top where the dough twists together and eat the rest, tossing the doughy stump to the side when finished. In Georgia, these piles of tops are almost like a record, as groups of men stack theirs and compete against each other while downing frosty mugs of beer.

When the khachapuri adjaruli ($14, above and below) arrived at the table, all eyes widened and there may have been just a bit of drool forming. The bread "boat" had puffed up and risen high above its cheesy interior, possibly setting a record in New York City for tallest khachapuri.

Take photos quickly and stir in the butter and egg before the cheese starts cooling. Once you have a good mix, start tearing off chunks of bread and dip them into the center to pull the cheese out. Served on a cutting board not even as long as the khachapuri, there is absolutely no way to keep this from getting messy, but it is worth it hands down.

Not appearing like much when it arrives at the table in a nondescript bowl, the megruli kharcho ($15, below) is actually a great order. Megruli is a descriptor for something from Samegrelo in western Georgia, which reaches both the coast of the Black Sea and up into the Caucasus Mountains. No matter what style of kharcho you are eating, there will be an abundance of walnuts pureed into the soup, and indeed the word "walnuts" is even added to the menu.

The soup is spicier than most things you will order at a Georgian restaurant, with a few flakes of roasted Turkish red pepper floating on the surface. Nuggets of dried beef are found beneath the surface, chewy like jerky and just right to suit the other tastes, which besides the tomato walnut puree include cherry plum paste for tartness, paprika, and fenugreek.

As always in Brooklyn, a 10% service charge will show up on your bill. No matter what the final price of the meal, there are leftovers and good value.

Kings Highway lost one good Georgian restaurant but gained another. Life moves on.

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GRAVESEND Brooklyn
230 Kings Highway

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Q.S. Palace

GEORGIA 🇬🇪

Depending on which side of Q.S. Palace you enter, you might end up with one of two first impressions that differ very greatly. On the right side, a simple food store makes half of the business, selling salads and breads and the full takeout menu from a counter.

Georgian crêpes and cheeses and sparkling waters can all be purchased quickly to take home. On this right side of the store, the window allows you to see inside and light escapes to the street. It is likely that this will seem like the entrance to the restaurant.

Georgian salad ($7.99)

But that is actually located behind the tinted windows of the left portion of the property. During daylight hours, opening this door will seem like entering a completely dark room at least until your eyes adjust. At night you can get some sense of the interior, but only coming inside lets you enjoy it fully.

The design and decor is that of a palace for sure, only condensed into a small New York City space. A pleasant blue is the preferred color of walls and ceiling, but it is the gold trim that pops out from crown moldings and other elements.

In Brooklyn, a meal at any former Soviet country's restaurant should usually begin with some cold appetizers like satsivi with chicken ($15, above) and eggplant with nuts ($10, below). These are easy to enjoy a few bites of amongst a group and get your taste buds ready for the main events.

The nuts in question, as usual when talking about Georgian food, are walnuts. On this dish called nigvziani badrijani, the delicious paste is spread over the rolled eggplant, and could only be made better by a more liberal application of pomegranate seeds.

Possibly the two most famous Georgian foods known to non-Georgians are both done very well here, starting with the Acharuli khachapuri ($12.99, above). Take your photos quick and mix up the egg and butter into the scalding hot cheese so everything cooks together.

While important to non-Georgians, khachapuri of course is indeed so Georgian that the tradition of making khachapuri now landed on the list of 48 items of intangible cultural heritage made by UNESCO. This type is sometimes called Adjarski, named for the Black Sea and Turkey-adjacent Autonomous Republic of Adjara in Georgia's southwestern corner where it comes from.

The second item that everyone knows is fresh khinkali ($12, above), Georgia's contribution to the world of dumplings. Khinkali appear like a hot water bag, but are thick-skinned soupy delights to be approached with caution.

Allow them to sit and cool for a bit, then turn sideways and bite a hole into the side. Suck out the fragrant herbal juices carefully and continue to the meat.

Dolma in vine leaf ($12)

Potato with mushrooms ($10)

Lamb chakapuli ($16)

If you have ever traveled in Georgia in the summer, one of the most memorable parts of the capital city of Tbilisi is the smells and sights of grilled meats. Vendors outside fill the air with a wonderful aroma of lamb, pork, and chicken on skewers, known locally as shashlik.

In Tbilisi you may find your meats served with Kakhetian bread, named after the far east region that features some of the best grilled meats as well. Here at Q. S. Palace they serve the lamb lula kebab ($11.99, below) inside of a flatbread that seems more Armenian style. This is packed with onions and pomegranate seeds, and can be dipped in their bright red sauce.

Ojakhuri ($12)

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BENSONHURST Brooklyn

2305 65th Street

I COULD USE YOUR HELP

Eat the World NYC is and always has been free. No advertisements block the content or pop over what you read. If this website has helped you explore your city and its wonderful cultures a little better and you have the means to contribute, please consider doing so. Eat the World NYC is a labor of love, but also takes a lot of money and time everyday to keep running.

You can Venmo me @JAREDCOHEE or click here to send PayPal donation, no account is necessary. Thank you!

Argo Restaurant

GEORGIA 🇬🇪

There are no shortage of full-service Georgian restaurants in this general area of Brooklyn, but after about a year of life Argo is putting itself near the top of the borough's most beloved. In the space once occupied by Turkish bakery Güllüoglu, big families and parties seem to be filling up the restaurant on weekends.

As expected, there is not a ton of atmosphere or charm to talk about, so let's just dive right into the meal.

Big meals in Brooklyn's former Soviet restaurants always start with a selection of cold appetizers. All three we ordered included walnut sauce in some form, including the kuchmachi ($10, above), a plate of chicken livers, hearts, and gizzards also covered with pomegranate seeds. Folks with an aversion to those words might not find this as unappealing as they think as all the offalness is very mild.

These same toppings are applied to the nigvziani badrijani ($10, below), simply called "eggplant with nuts" on the English menu. These are thinly sliced eggplant wrapped around a walnut paste, and absolutely a must eat.

Satsivi ($12, below) is another cold dish of chicken hunks served in a walnut sauce, this time much more liquified. It is full of garlic and other herbs and a true Georgian classic. With plenty of sauce always leftover, you will want to dip your bread in here as well to get the bowl clean.

The next arrivals at the table were done were our two bread orders. The famous adjaruli khachapuri ($12, above) is done really well here, although not so easy to share for a big group. Stir up the egg into the hot cheese when the bread arrives at the table and tear off pieces to dip in the mixture.

Somewhat disappointing was the good-looking lobiani ($10, below), a bean-filled bread that lacked flavor. All the breads here had very good textures.

Make sure everyone at the table has at least one of their own khinkali ($9 for 6, below), an oversized, thick-skinned Georgian dumpling. These can be served with pork or lamb with beef, both of which are good. Bite a hole in one side of the skin and do your best to suck the juices out without losing any into your lap or on the table. Georgians do not eat the top "knot" and leave a pile of them on their plate as evidence of how many they've eaten.

On the menu, the chanakhi ($14, above and below) is described simply as a lamb stew but this does not quite do it justice. The savory stew is full of flavor and comes served with a freshly baked bread enveloping the top. Cut this away to find the meat and everything else, but use the pieces in your bites as well.

A nice change in flavor profiles is available with the chakapuli ($14, below), another stew of veal, tarragon, and greens that has a wonderful sour taste. This comes from tkemali, a sauce made from sour plums.

Ojakhuri ($15, below) looks like a pile of fried potatoes but actually has many pieces of fried meat hidden within as well. Available in lamb or pork, the dish is a revelation and even the potatoes are not left behind as they are somehow perfect.

Chekmeruli ($14, below) is described as chicken in garlic sauce, although the sauce is more milk and butter it seems. Either way, it's very tasty although your enjoyment might depend on getting a nice piece of dark meat rather than a dry breast.

Argo is doing things really well, we are already thinking about our next big meal here.

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MIDWOOD Brooklyn

1985 Coney Island Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

King Meats Market Takeout

GEORGIA 🇬🇪

This busy Brighton Beach market selling all sorts of Eastern European and American groceries has recently opened a small storefront around the corner on Brighton 6th Street selling Georgian foods by the pound. Combined with the vendor under the umbrella in front, there is plenty of takeout options here for a day on the beach or to bring back home.

$3.50 khachapuri

$2 khachapuri

$1.50 ground chicken pastry

Brighton 6th Street takeout facade

kuchmachi $5/lb

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BRIGHTON BEACH Brooklyn

605 Brighton Beach Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Georgian Deli and Bakery

GEORGIA 🇬🇪

About a year ago, the awning went up for this bakery, but each time I came back in the following months there was still paper in the windows. By the end of the year, they were up and running, but my meals did not bring me back to the area. One day a few months back, I grabbed one imeruli khachapuri ($7, below), which are easy to transport and heat up well in a home oven. It was easily tasty enough to want to return.

This deli/bakery is takeout only, but has quite a large variety for such a small place. A refrigerated case in front has a good selection of soups and salads, all the classic Georgian favorites including soup kharcho ($5.99, not pictured) and lobio with walnuts ($7.99, not pictured). Coupled with the five versions of khachapuri and many other baked breads and pies, someone could create an epic Georgian feast for themselves. For anyone in the southern part of Brooklyn, they deliver at least as far as Sunset Park.

On our second visit, in addition to the khachapuri above we took home a container of chashushuli ($6.99, below), a beef stew that has tomatoes, sweet onions, fresh herbs, and plenty of Georgian spices. It is hearty, slightly spicy and soaks into bread perfectly.

There are good Georgian restaurants in the area (Mtskheta Cafe, Georgia Kiziki), but the food here at the deli might actually be better. Unfortunately they have no seating, but anyone with the ability to transport their foods home or have it delivered should definitely check it out.

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BENSONHURST Brooklyn

2270 86th Street

Georgia Kiziki

GEORGIA 🇬🇪

In early August, a friend bound for Georgia was in town and wanted to go for Georgian food before her trip. I decided to combine her wish with my desire to visit Cafe Caucasia, one of a few restaurants on Bensonhurst's 86th Street. When we showed up, there was paper on the windows and construction happening inside. Like Georgia Cafe before it, Cafe Caucasia was done and was now morphing into another Georgian restaurant.

After two attempts over the past months to return and try the food only to be met by private events, the third time was finally the charm. There was indeed another party, but they were only occupying about half of the restaurant and it was still open to the public. Shortly after sitting down, a natural born performer took to the "stage" and started belting out Russian karaoke songs to the delight of the party.

It was fun for a few tunes, but it was deafeningly loud and prevented me and my friend from having any conversation. I was told by the waitress that this is an ongoing event on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays, so I do recommend avoiding those nights if you want to speak with your companions. On the other hand, if you feel like dancing and enjoying somewhat of a spectacle...

On the front of the menu are the flags of the United States and Georgia. Indeed inside the names of the dishes were only written in English and Georgian, completely leaving Russian language out of the equation, something you don't find in your typical Georgian restaurant in New York City. Since Georgia does not really like Russia in real life, this made me optimistic for some reason, although all the dialogue between customers and servers was in Russian.

As most of the place was up dancing, our dishes started arriving, beginning with the chicken in walnut sauce ($15, below), a dish always served cold as an appetizer. Here it is top notch, although the pieces are hacked whole so you do need to maneuver the bones, which can be challenging through the thick sauce.

The typical Georgian salad ($10, below) is spruced up a bit with mint and maybe sugar as I detected hints of sweetness. As usual, the tomatoes and cucumbers were crisp.

Gebzhalia Sulguni cheese in mint and sour cream sauce ($12, below) is not only a mouthful but was a new dish for me and pretty self explanatory. The mint leaves are rolled up in the cheese, which is much like mozzarella. I stole a tomato from the salad and made myself an Italian appetizer at one point.

After this, hot food began with the ostri ($15, below) beef stew in a tomato sauce. This is a fairly delicious bowl, but for the price the shallow dish does not really offer good value. We asked for bread and they even ended up charging us $3 for that.

The imeruli khachapuri ($10, below) is on the opposite end of the spectrum, gut busting value. The nice dough and more sulguni cheese had no complaints from me, but I did put aside two thirds of my portion to take home for the next day so that I could attempt to tackle the rest of our meal.

As always, Georgian dumplings ($10, below) are made fresh and take the longest, arriving last at our table. These are also good value, and read more herbal than usual, toning down slightly the saltiness. Fair warning when eating these anywhere if you have not already burned yourself, let them cool a bit and tilt the juice away from you when you take that first bite.

By the time we were done with all of our plates, the big birthday party had left and only one other small table was full. This however had no effect on the entertainer who kept belting out songs with the audio system cranked up to 10.

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BENSONHURST Brooklyn

1871 86th Street