Perfect Taste

MALAYSIA 🇲🇾

A few months after beloved Kopitiam moved to a larger space on East Broadway, Perfect Taste, another Malaysian cafe has decided to give the tiny space on Canal Street a go. It set up a little under a year ago, and seems to have a pretty healthy following, or at least as much as the room allows at any one time. One table with four chairs and two additional small counters allow seating for eight or so, but when that many people are there at once it can be a challenge just to get to the register.

But once you order and settle in, Perfect Taste has a charm to it that is enjoyable. The kitchen is hidden behind a half wall but you can still get a sense of what the chef is up to, cooking dishes one by one as Grubhub and Postmates runners wait impatiently outside. Inside, the man in charge takes good care of waiting customers, passing out water before being asked for it, and making sure things are tidy. The menu, despite being large in size, is small in options and fitting for the space. Hainan chicken, Singaporean laksa, kaya toast, coffee and teas.

If you have not already established the fact, Perfect Taste is not a place to come when you are in a hurry. If you pass this one criteria, and have a love for Hainan chicken, this can be a memorable meal. That most popular dish of Southeast Asia and especially Malaysia and Singapore is featured here, expertly poached chicken served at room temperature with fragrant herb rice that has been cooked with the chicken broth.

The plate of Hainan boneless chicken and herb rice ($11.98, above) is simple in appearance but certainly one of the city's best versions. The rice itself always competes to be the focus of the dish rather than the meat, and the small tray of sauces served alongside it make for a wide array of flavor combinations possible for each bite. The spicy red pepper sauce will almost always need a refill it is so good.

Three strips of the same poached chicken are used in their Singaporean laksa ($10.98, above and below), which is also available served with shrimp. This hearty bowl full of thick egg noodles is soft from coconut milk but edgy from spices and curry. Squeeze the lime they serve with it, as the initial balance favors the savory much more than the sour.

The bowl is a behemoth even if it does not initially appear to be, digging underneath the surface finds enough noodles to fill most bellies.

Pair your meals here with their special Ipoh-style white and black coffees ($4 each, not shown). Ipoh, in inland Malaysia is well-known as a coffee town, and both styles have a special brewing process. The white coffee is not white of course, but lighter in color than the black because the beans are roasted with sugar. The resulting "white" name is given because of the appearance after the mandatory condensed milk is stirred into the brew. It all sounds sickenly sweet to someone who drinks coffee without sugar, but give a try because it actually goes down quite well with the coffee able to shine through multiple layers of sweetness.

Even better than the main courses for enjoying this coffee with is one of their tasty kaya toasts ($4.98 each, below), available with butter, cheese, or peanut butter (shown). Even this dish seems to have a lot of care put into it, perfectly crisp bread holds very even layers of kaya and your choice of accompaniment.

Kaya is a coconut milk spread made green by pandan leaves and said to be an energy booster. It is commonly eaten for breakfast or during afternoon tea for a pick-me-up to get to the end of the day. Stopping in for a quick plate of this with coffee seemed to be a popular snack for several people on the occasion of the first visit here.

It is easy to imagine future visits to Perfect Taste for that sometimes necessary afternoon boost.

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CHINATOWN Manhattan
51B Canal Street

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Kong Sihk Tong

HONG KONG 🇭🇰

If you wandered around the streets of New York City's various Chinatowns ten years ago, you may have come across a cha chaan teng only once in a while. Now this particular style of Hong Kong eatery is popping up in all of them, and even sometimes on their own in other neighborhoods. While they may be a "tea restaurant" if translated literally, they are much more than that. In Hong Kong, they are usually quite informal, a stall inside a market, or a few plastic stools at an outdoor stand.

Here the look is much more formal but still casual, with a full menu of favorites. The appearance outside, with a faux-traditional tiled roof kept from the Sichuan restaurant that used to be here will not prepare you for the modern interior with murals and sleek design.

In addition to the fun interior, take a few moments to visually enjoy in all the good tchotchkes they have placed around the restaurant like cans of Ovaltine and Milo. It all has a connection to the beginning.

My greatest connections with memories with cha chaan tengs in Hong Kong is sitting down to plates of condensed milk "French" toast in the morning, preferably those with peanut butter. Those would be filled with a thick layer of the nutty condiment and drowned in condensed milk, a morning heart attack. As if that was not enough, many times a slice of butter would be placed on top and start melting as the toast was served.

The version of condensed milk & peanut butter toast ($1.95, above) here was comparably super healthy, with very small amounts of both between slightly toasted pieces of white bread. Light as a feather, and to be honest not nearly as satisfying.

I never saw chicken wings in Hong Kong tea restaurants, but that certainly does not mean they do not exist. Here they are offered with a few interesting sauces, a wonderful HK-USA mashup food. These grapefruit honey sauce chicken wings ($4.75, below) really hit the spot and the sweet citrus glaze was much better than imagined.

Throwing cheese on instant ramen is something of the Hong Kong equivalent of a guilty pleasure, maybe like a New Yorker's constant desire for a quick slice of pizza. Pork chops instant noodle in cheese sauce ($8, below) was everything we wanted it to be, comfort food on a chilly night and a complete guilty pleasure. They went a long way to bringing me back to Tsim Sha Tsui eating at Sun Kee Cheese Noodle.

Last but certainly not least was the forever order on my playlist, beef macaroni with tomato soup ($6.25, below), another dish that should be taken advantage of when not listed in the children's section of the menu. Sweet and savory in equal amounts, and completely comforting.

The most common iteration of macaroni soup in a Hong Kong cha chaan teng is a simple chicken broth with small cuts of ham, but the upgrade to some of the "fancier" bowls is a good move in my book.

Kong Sihk Tong offers all the tea and coffee classics, the most imaginative being the super sweet half milk tea half milk coffee concoction that is beloved in Hong Kong. In addition, a full range of other options are available like the red bean ice with coconut milk ($4.25, below left) and taro milk shake ($4.25, below right).

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CHINATOWN Manhattan
65 Bayard Street

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Kopitiam

MALAYSIA 🇲🇾

For the first few years of its existence, Kopitiam lived around the corner in a tiny space on Canal Street but popularity continually stressed its ability to comfort. Then at the end of 2017 it abruptly disappeared with only a promise left behind that something new would eventually come.

Thankfully this happened over the summer. The new space on East Broadway is not all that larger, but with much more seating and functionality allows it to be the all day restaurant it desires to be. The kitchen has room to spread its wings and the menu follows suit, offering all the Chinese-Malay dishes that would never have been possible at the old location.

Kopitiam simply means "coffee shop," so do not stop by without trying one of their offerings. Penang-style black coffee (kopi) is available alone, with ghee butter, evaporated milk or with sweet condensed milk like the cup above called kopi tarik ($4.50). Bek-kopi, the white Penang coffee the internet exploded over a couple years back is still here.

Oh chien, fried oyster omelette ($12)

The food, like most Malaysian in New York City, is Peranakan, rich in the influences of Chinese immigrants have brought to the country for centuries. The food is not limited by these two cultures though, it also reaches out and grabs bits of Indian and other Southeast Asian cultures that have blended here forever.

Otak otak, fish cake in banana leaf ($5)

The focus is not so much on belly-stuffing entrees as it is on snacks and smaller plates. While prices are reasonable, portions are small and you can easily find yourself in the $30/person range if sampling a few items.

Lobak, fried pork roll ($6)

Pulut panggang, rice with shrimp paste ($6)

Normally a breakfast item, pan mee ($10, above and below) seems to be somewhat of a house specialty. A rich broth is made oily and fishy by fried anchovies that wonderfully release their powers into the bowl. The homemade knife cut noodles are a true pleasure, thick and chewy.

Fish ball soup with vermicelli ($8)

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CHINATOWN Manhattan

151 East Broadway

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Asian Spicy Curry at Mama Eatery

MALAYSIA 🇲🇾

People who enjoy finding new foods in New York City may take a look at the awning of Mama Eatery or even browse the menu and turn their noses up in response. It is hard to really figure the place out, to be fair. They have sandwiches and western-style breakfasts, while advertising hanger steak and Italian sausage pasta on the chalkboards. Recently they have even added a poke bowl to stay with current trends.

On a couple visits, the clients seemed to come mostly from NYPD Central Booking across Columbus Park, groups of police officers and other workers from the building made their way over on their breaks.

In an area where Asian foods are the norm, these workers seemed to be comforted by the western options on the menu, ordering panini and salads. Our eyes were set on the menu of "Asian Spicy Curry" which technically only comes out after 3pm but probably could be asked for before this time. It is still referred to as a pop-up, but the Malaysian offerings on this menu have become pretty permanent.

Curry laksa, called curry seafood noodle soup ($9.75, above and below) here, is about as good as it gets in our fair city. The thick broth consists of coconut milk, fish paste, and a small amount of chili paste to add a bit of heat. It was never attempted, but asking for an upgrade in this department certainly must be in the realm of possibilities.

The broth is also home to thinly sliced pieces of tasty fish cakes, two modest shrimp, squid, and a scattering of mushrooms which were surprisingly delightful in this setting. You are allowed to pick between three noodles varieties, but traditionally the lo mein style is what this soup demands.

For someone in the mood for a rice and curry dish, the curry spare ribs ($12, below) makes an excellent choice. A very generous portion of tender on the bone meat sits in another rich curry mix that has the tendency to settle. Mix these ingredients during each bite for the most enjoyment.

The fried potatoes almost seem to come from the breakfast menu and feel just right on top, adding a slight crispiness to the texture profile. An accompanying plate of rice comes dusted with sesame seeds. It may not appear from the photo but this dish was actually difficult for one person to eat, a real deal at the price.

The restaurant also features a couple curry options that can come served dry or as soups. The dry chicken curry ($8, below) is presented with all dark meat and chunks of well cooked potato. The bed of noodles, mei fun in this case, is dressed and drowned in a soy garlic sauce that is closer to uninspiring than mind-blowing.

A small bowl of what tastes like curry made from beef stock is served with this dish and should be applied generously.

While these meals stick to the Malaysian "pop-up" menu, future groups should be encouraged to mix and match if desired. Part of the fun of this city is when cultures and cuisines collide, and even sticking to one side in this restaurant leaves patrons a little confused by what type of establishment they are in. This is all a big portion of the charm, just like eating in Malaysia can be with their mash-up of cultures.

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CHINATOWN Manhattan

46 Mulberry Street

Yiwanmen Chongqing Noodle

CHINA

The Chinese name of this restaurant, and its poorly transliterated English name, mean "a bowl of noodles," no best or lucky needed it seems. If we stick with this theme, the place should serve good value noodle bowls without much flash. Holding it up to this standard, the place passes with flying colors.

Before these serviceable bowls of noodles arrived, it was hard to resist the "bun" menu. Both the roast duck bun ($4, below right) and the pork belly bun ($3, below left) are worth giving a try.

The menu of noodle soups here is not too long, focusing on a dozen or so and doing them well. For the highest mix of textures, try the beef offal rice noodle ($8.95, below). This clear soup uses a thinner noodle, meat balls, and sliced beef in addition to tripe.

The name of the restaurant sometimes includes "Chongqing Noodle" in it, but there is really only one option from Sichuan. This was the word that got us inside, so trying the Chongqing red oil noodle ($6.75, below) was mandatory. This bowl glows like proper Sichuan food should, and is full of minced pork, vegetables, peanuts, and half a tea egg. The broth is very satisfying, and can be catered to your proper spice level.

This restaurant is easy to pop into for a quick lunch or dinner, but would not suit a group so well. Pick the dining room door on the right, as the left door will take you right into the kitchen, also a good time.

CHINATOWN Manhattan

150 Mott Street (#E)

Hua Ji Pork Chop Fast Food

TAIWAN 🇹🇼

Recently on my umpteenth visit to Hua Ji Pork Chop Fast Food since the incredibly appetizing Real Cheap Eats post by Nicolas Chen written about four years ago, I noticed I had never written up the place myself. It took two or three more visits to finally do just this, as I usually make excuses to visit Hua Ji on my way to or from jobs and the like, but rarely have my camera and notes at the ready.

On my very last visit, it all became much easier, as they had taken over the space from a next door bus company and set up more seating and much more elbow room. Since they opened in 2008 (or so?), eating in here was an exercise in sharing space, as their two counters had around six chairs, but comfortably sat only two people. Now ordering to stay entails paying at the old counter and walking outside and next door to the new space to wait.

If the awning did not give away what your order should be, let me be clear: this is a one hit wonder. The pork chop over rice ($5, below) is that wonder, a dish most people come for, and a dish they take good care of. Each piece of fried pork I have ever had here has been satisfying, tender and fatty and juicy.

An order here comes served over a healthy portion of white rice in a white plastic bowl no matter if you order to stay or take away. Their sauce is always worth noting, a delicious salty, pickle-y glutinous blend with small ground up bits of pork. This sauce over rice would be an enjoyable meal on its own, but the whole combination is about the best five dollars you are ever going to spend.

The only other option worth diverting towards is just one spot down on the menu. The black pepper pork chop over rice is the same price and just a way to put a little kick into your sauce.

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CHINATOWN Manhattan

7 Allen Street

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Taiwan Bear House

TAIWAN 🇹🇼

Many Asian countries have a wonderful tradition of simple boxed or single portion meals for take away for workers and travelers. In India, these are called tiffin, in Korea dosirak, Japan has bento. Taiwan calls its version biandang, but at Taiwan Bear House, newly opened this summer on Pell Street in Chinatown, they seem to refer to their creations as bento.

The most famous boxed set in Taiwan is sold by the Taiwan Railways Administration and is available on train journeys as well as in the stations. These workaday meals do not speak of high cuisine by any means, but do provide tasty travel bites that blow normal airline meals out of the water.

At the Chinatown store they have fruit tea and milk tea and it all can be turned into bubble tea if desired. We grabbed a lychee tea ($3.50, above left) and Taiwan root beer ($2, above right) to add some sweetness to our bentos. I like root beer, and definitely liked this imported sarsaparilla can which somehow feels less guilty than drinking typical sodas produced here.

If you dine in, your "box" is served in a compact round wooden disposable container, everything on a bed of rice and served with some lettuce, tofu, and half of a braised egg. Above are the pork belly ($9.99, left) and original minced pork ($6.99, right) bento boxes, the latter being the cheapest but possibly most satisfying. The main ingredient in terms of quantity in these bowls is rice, and the minced pork just seems to connect with it the best.

There is no denying the appeal of the night market crispy chicken ($9.99, above), boneless and softly fried chunks that come out blisteringly hot and deliciously fragrant. The pieces have a sweetness to them that beg for the chunks to be cut up and spooned into your mouth with a good portion of rice.

You can combine your boxes with drinks for a small discount if desired, making the appropriate combo for everyone. Please note that this visit took place in August and I have updated pricing based on their Seamless page. Apologies for any inconsistencies.

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CHINATOWN Manhattan

11 Pell Street

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Xi'an Famous Foods

CHINA (SHAANXI PROVINCE)

Instead of updating my review from 2010 with new information, I have decided to throw it out and start fresh with Xi'an, which now is an empire of six locations. As far as I know, the quality at each place has remained surprisingly consistent to the original, which you see below.

My go to dish is sort of their signature, the spicy cumin lamb noodles ($7.25, below). You are pretty much guaranteed happiness with any order containing their wonderful cumin lamb. After a few bites, lips start tingling and smiles start broadening, the flavors within are so deep. The thick heavy homemade noodles are all entangled and make for a challenge with the cheap wooden chopsticks on offer, as it all is ready to splash down in a puddle of spicy oily goodness.

Compared to the cumin lamb, the lamb meat soup ($4.75, below) is for me not as exciting, but I wanted to try something deviating from my normal orders. The glass noodles are not as pleasing to the teeth and tongue either, but a general rule may be to never mix cumin and non-cumin dishes, as the overwhelming tastes of the former will always make the latter less flavorful.

Well-known now by students in the genre of cheap eats is the spicy cumin lamb burger ($3.25, below), which sits besides $1 pizza and Mamoun's Falafel as some of the cheapest way to get your stomach full on a budget. This would certainly be my pick of the three though, blowing both of the others out of the water.

The noodles are all of course made in house, and you can enjoy the spectacle of this at some of their locations (Chinatown below). The thick noodles are always so fresh in anything you order.

For experience alone, the original underground location in Flushing's Golden Shopping Mall food court is still the best, to sit amongst stalls from other delicious food vendors as well. Extra stomachs will become necessary. The three locations I have visited are listed below:

FLUSHING Queens

Golden Shopping Mall Food Court

41-28 Main Street

CHINATOWN Manhattan

67 Bayard Street

EAST VILLAGE Manhattan

81 St. Marks Place