Nana's Kitchen

ALBANIA 🇦🇱

On the street in front of Nana's Kitchen, just off Morris Park Avenue, you can barely notice some color that had long ago been painted right on the asphalt. It is so faded that the intention does not come to you immediately, but the three bands of red, white, and green that used to be bright and crisp were actually the Italian flag.

Back when these colors were laid, the space here was a bagel shop and across the street was a busy Italian cafe. This specific block of Hone Avenue had been given the name Rocco Miano Way shortly after the death of the namesake Italian-American man who lived here and had a larger than life presence in Morris Park.

But as time passes, the character of neighborhoods shift. As has happened in Belmont's "Little Italy," Morris Park has also seen quite an influx of Albanians over the years. Across the street from each other right at the point of that faded Italian flag are now a popular Albanian sports bar and Nana's Kitchen, which moved in about six years back.

Come at anytime during the morning, afternoon, and evening, and you will find its tables filled my mostly Balkan men. You are likely to be greeted in Albanian if you could pass as one, for there are not many others showing up here and speaking different languages. For this reason, it is easy to skip the portions of the menu that do not focus on Albanian specialties, backed up by the fact that plates of qebapa are arriving at almost every table.

This meal started with a small bowl of fasul ($4, above), which they simply describe as "bean soup" on the menu. You sometimes see this also called grosh, but here the hearty white bean stew feels very homemade and rustic, as if nana herself brought it out to you. Certainly there are onions and tomatoes and olive oil used but also chopped herbs and chili.

Do not pass up a nice byrek, available here in either cheese, meat, or spinach varieties. The cheese byrek ($5) below had a very thin exterior that got crisp in the oven but was otherwise very soft and savory. Five dollars does not often fill you up these days, but if you came in for nothing else, hunger would probably be avoided for quite a few hours. Grab a cup of yogurt for $2 to go with it if you enjoy dunking your byrek in something creamy and slightly sour.

Those aforementioned plates of meat are available focusing on one meat or as a combination of three. Upgrade to the shop salad for $1 extra, a fresh mix of tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions rather than lettuce. Most of the other tables had made this move as well.

The combination ($13, below) comes with five skinless sausages known as qebapa, a ground beef patty called qofte, and suxhuk, a dried and spicy sausage full of red pepper. They throw a slice of feta cheese in there that combines nicely with not only the meats but the shop salad, and of course no Albanian meal is complete without a basket of their freshly baked bread.

Stuffed peppers ($11, below) come full of ground beef, but it is the sauce that really gives this dish its punch. That basket of bread will come in handy to mop every last delicious drop off the plate. The table had that awkward moment late in the meal where the kind server wanted to clear dishes, but with some of that orange-red delight still left, it had to be rescued.

If desired, wash it all down with a refreshing Albanian orange soda called Ivi ($3, below). This is not overly carbonated and is not too sweet, making it quite a good drink, helping to cut the grease from the meat.

Enjoy your stay in Morris Park! Both sides of the Adriatic are both alive and well.

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MORRIS PARK Bronx
1809 Hone Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Albanian Grocery

ALBANIA 🇦🇱

All photos by Sasha Maslov for The Queens Tribune.

This article originally appeared in the 13 December 2018 edition of The Queens Tribune:

In the early 2000s, I had my first experience meeting an Albanian pizza maker on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx at Tony & Tina’s Pizzeria. After a short inquiry and a couple of orders of byrek instead of a typical slice, I had more questions than answers. Luckily, a succinct article in The New York Times from 2001 answered most of my questions, but Albanians’ connection to pizza—and how they started taking over pizzerias from upwardly-mobile Italians—always fascinated me.

While Albania was not part of the former Yugoslavia, many ethnic Albanians in New York City are actually from places that were, especially Montenegro and Kosovo. In the 1990s they started arriving in waves, as dire circumstances forced them to flee violence and hardship in their own homelands. During that decade, the populations of Balkan peoples in New York City exploded, and Ridgewood was one of the locations that saw much of this resettlement. The formerly German neighborhood is now home to the Serbian Association of NY, and in nearby Glendale you can find the Albanian American Islamic Center. Myrtle Avenue favorite Muncan Food Corp. is possibly the city’s premier location for cured Balkan meats. The now-closed Etno Restaurant, which was under the Fresh Pond Road subway station, used to hang the flag of every nation of the former Yugoslavia from its awning and serve the foods familiar to all Balkan peoples.

Nowadays, Fresh Pond Road is more Polish than Balkan, but a new grocery store has put up its bright red-and-white awning with the flag of Albania to declare its allegiance to the latter. Only four months old and still figuring out its rotating menus and operating times, Albanian Grocery is owned by Lulzim Nika, who came to New York City 10 years ago, a bit after the large influx of the ’90s. He is originally from Puka, a town of 11,000 people in northern Albania, but he spent the majority of his life in the capital city of Tirana doing work unrelated to food. Mr. Nika immediately went into pizza upon arriving here, however. With the right connections and commitment, he now operates four pizzerias in Manhattan after a four-year stint at Rubirosa, which he told me inspired him most.

The opportunity arose when the shop’s previous owner passed away and the business was up for sale. As someone with a passion for what dough can become in the right hands and the right time in an oven, Mr. Nika believed that a prepared-foods deli with a natural knack for making delicious Albanian byrek was the right fit for him and the neighborhood. Byrek is the Albanian word for what is known as börek or burek or many other terms in many other nations. Basically, it is a flaky-layered phyllo dough pastry filled with ingredients of the chef’s choosing. Common in Albanian byrek is ground beef, cheese or spinach, all three of which are available here.

When I asked Mr. Nika if there were certain similarities between the skills of a pizza maker and a great byrek chef, he laughed and exclaimed “Of course!” as if the question answered itself and was unnecessary. When you understand dough, you can be very good at both. He still spends most of his time at his pizzerias, while the day-to-day operations here are run by three lovely women.

On my third visit, I asked to observe the making of the byrek from flour to finished product, and was eagerly taken to the kitchen for a demonstration. The layers of dough have to be first pushed thin by hand and then flipped to stretch them out further. One byrek pie will use four of these thin layers and have ingredients stuffed in between before baking. I do not know the secrets, but their pies come out of the oven without excessive grease or weight, unlike many versions you will find.

During the course of the day, fresh pies are made from scratch as needed, so you will never find a byrek sitting around for long. Each one is cut into four slices, so there is a 25 percent chance they will need to make a new pie when you order if the previous one is gone. It is worth the 10-15 minute wait, though, as the slice fresh from the oven is a place close to heaven.

In addition to these, the kitchen makes a range of dishes to fill a small steam table each day, and serves hearty lunches. Most of the customers I saw during visits here worked nearby; many had come in for the first time, curious about the prospect of a new meal. Two small tables in the front offer space for a few people to eat, but many take their bounty to go. Foods on the steam table can include tasqebap, a rich oily beef stew that was called “Albanian goulash” when I inquired about the name; or fasule, another hearty soup of white beans and bits of meat. Usually there is at least one type of tavë, a baked casserole traditionally made of soured milk. This thick cream was described to me as similar to bechamel, but upon eating it, it was obvious this comparison was only made due to the fact that I cannot speak Albanian. The yogurt and eggs used to make this do not remind you of the mother sauce from France.

The food is all rib-sticking and genuinely tasty, but even more enjoyable here is the pleasure taken from being their guest. On my first visit, a tablecloth was even laid down for me before I dined alone. As I ate my lunch between the cured meats and cheeses in the counter refrigerator and some stacked shelves of teas and snacks, it was not hard to feel like royalty when they took such care. There is no pizza here, but you will not miss it at all after your first bite of their byrek.

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RIDGEWOOD Queens
65-05 Fresh Pond Road

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Çka ka Qëllu

ALBANIA 🇦🇱

It has all been leading to this. First came Tradita, a brick oven pizza joint a bit more than 30 minutes walk north into Norwood. It's menu satisfied the pizza cravings of an obsessed city while slipping in some traditional Albanian and Kosovar items. But Çka ka Qëllu was always the dream, a full modern restaurant highlighting everything about this proud cuisine. The name is an offer and a desire at the same time, inspired by the feeling that giving your last piece of bread is much more honorable than eating it yourself.

But do not be afraid, the offerings here speak of bounty, a one-page menu lays these out easily. Besides the grilled meats that are most famous from the Balkans, another focus here are dishes called tavë, named for the clay vessel they are served in. A version of this dish with lamb and yogurt is considered the national dish of Albania, but tavë kosi is unfortunately not offered yet. There are six other kinds though, all of which made it hard to narrow down to one.

Muskujë viçi në tavë ($14.50, above) is the veal option, a thick section of pure meat in a savory reduction with peppers.

You will see many items used for centuries like this old tavë dish on the walls of the restaurant. Tools and decorations, cookware and clothing conjure up the past. Even the music follows the same beat.

It was hard to sample much while dining alone, but the pickled pepper appetizers seemed like a good bet not to be too filling. Spec n'turshi ($2.50, below) is pickled very sharply in the traditional Albanian way while spec me mazë n'turshi ($3.50, below back) is covered in creamy white cheese.

Both are crunchy and very enjoyable to eat, although it is hard to recommend against the cheesy version.

Return visits will of course knock off plates of grilled meats and more versions of the tavë. It is exciting to see a Balkan menu arrive with a more diverse array of the cuisine available there.

[UPDATE: The return visit happened faster than expected, with a group of 8 hungry people. Rating upgraded, photos below:]

Tradita salad $12

Fli $7

Tradita mixed grill platter x 2 $19 x 2

Pasul with smoked sausage $14

Kacamak $11

Sarma $13.50

Baklav and sheqer pare $5.50 each

Albanian coffee $4

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BELMONT Bronx

2321 Hughes Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Cakor Restaurant

ALBANIA 🇦🇱

On October 28th, two days before this meal, Albanians celebrated their independence day back home and here in Belmont where the streets were still filled with flags, waving red with a black double-headed eagle. Even on a normal week, this area which is still known as the Bronx's Little Italy is more of a Little Albania. The cafes are full of Albanian and other Balkan conversations, even if everyone is still sipping cappuccinos.

The menu at Cakor is a salute to both, with many Italian pastas and seafood dishes on one side, while Balkan specialties of grilled meats inhabit the other. This is normal though, as Albania at various times in history has been occupied by Greeks, Romans, and lastly the Ottoman Empire.

As with many people of Albanian heritage here in New York, the owner calls Montenegro home, and sometimes specials from this country can show up.

After the order was placed, we asked for bread as the waiter was walking away. His answer of "This is an Albanian restaurant" first made us think that bread was not an option because of his tone, but he was simply implying that there is no Albanian meal without bread.

A basket of what he called simit showed up shortly afterwards, but was much different from the Turkish simit I have had. This light and fluffy loaf was cut up into thin sections, which we almost devoured before the rest of the meal came.

Another unordered and unbilled plate arrived with roasted sweet red and spicy green peppers as well as some delicious goat cheese.

Knowing a lot of meat was coming, a shopska salad ($10, below) was ordered as a counterpoint. This cucumber and tomato salad was laced with a lot of onions and covered in more goat cheese and a few slivers of red pepper.

Over the course of my residency in New York City and trips to the Balkans, I have enjoyed many pljeskavicas, a large and well-spiced patty of meat served between two pieces of flatbread. They offer a different way to eat it here at Cakor, called stuffed pljeskavica ($17, below), which ditches the bread and fills the meat with gooey melted kajmak, a creamy dairy product not far from cheese.

The plate also has some weird accoutrement; two fried potato wedges, a block of cheese, some chopped onions, and some more red peppers, so feel free to experiment with your taste combinations.

What was most anticipated was the mixed grill ($26, below), a gathering of meats which all seem to be expertly marinated. The traditional cevape and qofte was supplemented with suxhuk sausage, liver, kidney, baby lamb, and chicken.

Word to the wise: go for the kidney before your tablemates eat too much, as it is outstanding. The whole platter is very satisfying though.

We ordered a round of cappuccinos to finish off the filling meal and provide some digestif. The place takes on a cafe feeling in the summer when tables and chairs are outside, but even in winter groups of men come here and hang out for a long time, enjoying the food and atmosphere.

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BELMONT Bronx

632 East 186th Street

Cemi Cafe

MONTENEGRO
ALBANIA

When exiting the F and G trains at Church Avenue on the border of Borough Park and Kensington, decisions to go in opposite cardinal directions can bring you to opposite ends of the world. Within this decision is also the ability to travel from one end of the spectrum of Islam to another, all the way from Bangladesh to the Balkans. While most of this intersection is a Muslim world of food and mobile phone shops on offer for South Asians, walk a couple blocks west to find odd little Cemi Cafe.

Above their awning, they advertise Italian food and speak nothing of the few treasures on the menu from the Balkans. The countries of the former Yugoslavia and Italy do share a common border and a sea between them, but their foods are not so related.  But I certainly would not put it past this place to serve excellent pastas since Italian food is prevalent in the Balkans, especially further north towards the border. Something told me from the voices in the dining room that I should concentrate my efforts on the non-Italian items though.

Despite recognizing Slavic, I could not pin down these voices and asked the bartender about the workings here. Himself, the chef, and most of the patrons turned out to be ethnic Albanians from Montenegro. In that country, they make up about 5% of the population while here in this restaurant they made up more than 90%. Only me and the Central Asian (one of the countries that ends with -stan) waitress could claim origins from elsewhere.

On a Friday night, I sat down and had the bar to myself while the tables all filled up with men taking drinks. Water and coffee for some, beer and cocktails for others. Was no one eating or would that come later? For now, the place was like a community center.

I put in the order for far too much for one person, and was asked "Do you know what is ajvar?" Yes and yes please was my verbal response, while inside I was jumping and shouting that was the reason I came. The red pepper sauce ubiquitous in the Balkans can and is slathered on just about everything, and for good reason: it is delicious. I also snatched up one of the feta filled bureks ($6, above), and broke up pieces while I enjoyed the rest of my meal.

A "small" order of cevapi ($8, below) affords you five pieces and a nice crisp salad with more feta and the important ajvar. Also included is wonderfully pillowy homemade bread which had me sending compliments to the chef. Both the meats and the burek are certainly not the best I have ever eaten, but they are good and especially so for this section of Brooklyn.

As my hunger receded I could more easily enjoy the people and atmosphere, grab a Heineken and eavesdrop on conversations I could not understand. The mood is jovial and the standoffish feel one might get when entering for the first time is whisked away as a preconception.

BOROUGH PARK Brooklyn

61 Church Avenue

Dukagjini Burektorja

ALBANIA 🇦🇱
KOSOVO 🇽🇰

It might be too early to say 2011 was a great year, but being invited into the kitchen of an Albanian mother and daughter cooking burek is a pretty good way to start. In between a small photo studio and halal meat shop on Lydig Avenue in the Bronxdale neighborhood (of the Bronx), Dukagjini is owned by an Albanian Kosovar but operated by two lovely Albanian women who obviously know all their customers and produce some fine burek.

Balkans double park their cars outside and run in for a slice. The walls and windows are covered with posters advertising various events going on in the community. There is a painting of the owner's restaurant (also called Dukagjini) in Kosovo. Everything just speaks of it being a hub for the area's Albanian residents.

On a recent visit, I finished my burek and espresso and got enough nerve to ask if I could take a photo of the women at the counter. This opened the floodgates of hospitality, the door swung open and I was allowed to step into the kitchen to meet mom and see the preparations of uncooked burek. Mom (above) was lovely, greased up to her elbows making the dough and happy to show off her creations. Her daughter (below) was equally proud and gave me a look into the oven full of all varieties available.

Before all this went down, I was able to enjoy a lovely meat slice (below), a cup of the freshest yogurt ($1.50) you will ever try, and a small espresso ($2). The menu is limited to these three things, although you do have the choice of meat, cheese, or spinach for your burek, all of which are $4.

The flaky goodness of a burek is common to all countries that make them, but an Albanian version is somehow less greasy. The meat is good, the cheesy slices have more cheese, and the spinach slices seem to be infused with dill.

There are only five tables here, but it seems like most people take their food and run so it is easy to get a seat. It's fun to sit back with your food and drink and watch people come in and out. The Bronx has something very special here at Dukagjini.

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PELHAM PARKWAY Bronx
758 Lydig Avenue

Tony & Tina's Pizzeria

ALBANIA

Sometimes referred to as "Tony & Tina's Pizza & Burek" online, I find the reason to stop into this busy little pizzeria is in fact for the burek. It's pumpkin incarnation ($3.50, below) is the only variety that comes wound in a spiral as it would be in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The dough is perfect, and the pumpkin easier to eat than a thick slice of pumpkin pie on Thanksgiving. I almost wanted to put some whipped cream on top, but thought that might get me chased off of Arthur Avenue. I saw others dipping their meat and vegetable versions in yogurt, but will have to try this on another visit.

I've never tried a slice here, but those in the display case made it look clear to me that the way to go here is towards the Balkans.

BELMONT Bronx

2483 Arthur Avenue