MCG Grand Cafe

GRENADA 🇬🇩

For over a decade, the flag of Grenada has flown at this location. The previous spot which was named "De Island" hung a big one from the window and sometimes even more from the awning. For the last two and a half years, a new owner has taken over and modernized the exterior a bit, but look closely enough and the small yellow, green, and red flag of the island nation still hangs in the window.

More importantly, the menu announces the origin of the chef and the vast list of food shows a real pride in the place rather than the ubiquitous "West Indian" offerings of many restaurants. Master Chef Gibbs, the "MCG" from the name, dresses in an all red uniform and has a smile that sets the tone.

The entrance leads down a hallway where many people walk in and place their takeout orders directly with the chef. For those wanting to dine in, make your arrival known and take a seat.

The woman who takes care of the tables is also super friendly, and since I had her to myself on an early Saturday evening it seemed like the "Back in Grenada..." stories could flow forever. I was asking way too many questions about the country and food, but she never skipped a beat in providing full and thoughtful answers.

One of many unique appetizers available is the coo-coo balls and lambie slush ($9, above), which thankfully for January is served hot despite its name. "Lambie" is local terminology for conch, and the snail meat inside is very common in stews and curries in Grenada. The coo-coo underneath, made of cornmeal, is also common in Grenada and it's Windward neighbors, but this combination with the addition of okra is definitely somewhat of a modern take. It is very good.

The portions here are not set up so that one person can eat a full appetizer and entree, so when this massive heavy bowl of oil down ($13, below) arrived, I knew I had met my match. Grenada's national dish, oil down is only available here on Saturdays, replicating how it might be enjoyed back home as a weekend meal.

The most important ingredient in an oil down is breadfruit, named for the texture it has when cooked. This is mixed with much denser dumplings, a bit of potato, and a hunk of chicken and saltfish, which is all cooked in coconut milk and callaloo. All in all, the amount of food here is intense.

Eventually when bellies are full and plates are cleared, the floral tablecloths and plastic bouquets come back into focus. The good spirit of the place is everywhere, and the bag of leftovers is wrapped up.

I must have been asking enough questions that word made it back to the kitchen and the friendly chef came out after my meal to chat a bit as well. It was as if I had made new friends simply by coming and enjoying the food.

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PROSPECT LEFFERTS GARDENS Brooklyn

1199 Nostrand Avenue

Steph Bakery Restaurant

GRENADA 🇬🇩

With such a nondescript awning and front window, this small Canarsie shop might be passed by without a second thought. As I was taking a circuitous walk from Brownsville to Sunset Park one weekday afternoon, I thankfully had the memory of a small mention by Eating in Translation from a couple years ago to bring me inside. Unfortunately that mouth-watering cheese straw pictured was unavailable this day, but the bakery and restaurant do offer a lot to choose from.

Upon walking in, no one immediately comes to the front, which is beneficial to peruse everything they have on offer. Three cases hold a vast array of sweet rolls typical of Caribbean sweet rolls, full cakes, slices of cakes, bags of sweet buns and loaves of bread. The women that work here stay busy in the back until exactly the moment a customer is ready, as if they are secretly reading facial expressions.

The neon paper signs on the wall list hot Caribbean dishes like oxtail and goat curry, stew chicken and fish. While these dishes may not all be specifically Grenadian as the small flag and home country of the owner and employees are, they must be popular in a very Caribbean neighborhood and necessary for business.

One currant roll ($2, below) and coconut roll ($2, below) was asked for to go, and eaten the following morning with coffee. They retained their moistness perfectly, and were enjoyed as usual.

The most tempting display in the shop is probably the case of patties, ten different varieties kept warm for immediate eating. The callaloo patty ($2.40, below) was the most enticing on this day, a rectangle of yellow dough with hints of the stew oozing out. The leafy vegetables seem creamy with coconut milk, onion, and garlic.

Callaloo played such a big part in the oil down which was the introduction to Grenadian food on this website, so it seemed the right choice for a patty here.

After eating, the little shop's character started showing through. Copies of Caribbean Life Magazine were available for free, artwork showing island life alluded to fresh air and warm ocean waters. Rhum Runners set off from docks in the capital of St. George against the backdrop of colorful homes and churches.

After a while, another woman comes in and asks for oxtail. When she finds out it is not available, she turns around and says "Well, I will try again next week!"

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CANARSIE Brooklyn

1392 Rockaway Parkway

New Topps Bakery/Restaurant

ST. VINCENT + THE GRENADINES 🇻🇨
GRENADA 🇬🇩

The awning of this Flatlands Avenue Caribbean joint is not necessarily enough to draw the casual explorer inside, but some of the exotic words on the glass storefront are. What exactly is oil down and tania logg anyways?

Speaking with the people here for a moment, it is clear that they want to have the moniker of being pan-Caribbean and not hole themselves into one or another of the island nations. Flags from many are displayed from each along the bakery counter in front. The one seen in the photo below is Dominica. The largest flag of the place, on the wall in front, is that of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, the home of the owner.

You can find oil down in a couple other nearby countries, but only Grenada claims it as its national dish, and furthermore uses it as the name of a neighborhood party you may be invited to if you happen to make friends. It is now on my bucket list to get invited to one of these possibly all-day parties where everyone pitches in to help prepare the dish.

What an oil down ($10, small portion, below) actually is, sensual massage jokes aside, is a very hearty stew of breadfruit and coconut milk, callaloo, dumplings, plantains, and an assortment of meat. An oil down comes to life when the oils from the coconut milk simmer out and combine with the other ingredients. It is all cooked in one pot and allowed to do this for quite some time. the lady here called the stew a curry, and effectively it could be as coconut milk and a generous amount of curry powder makes the broth.

Available Fridays and Saturdays only

Along the top of the photo above you see one of the extremely dense dumplings that are served in the dish, guaranteed to fill you up even in its small rendition. I was asked when I ordered if I wanted everything in it, and regardless of whether I know what the list of "everything" entails, I usually make it a point to answer this question in the affirmative. I was greeted with a dish of chicken, pork, and fish combined. A lot of the former two meats were very bony and seemed to be more for flavor than bites. A quick search online about it brings to light the fact that all manner of parts of a pig is usually included in the pot when this is cooking, and some of those are bound to end up on your plate.

I also ordered a cup of the Grenadian cocoa tea ($1.50, below), a smooth but barely chocolatey drink that was quite tasty. I did note a hint of something savory in it, but could not distinguish it.

I enjoyed sitting here and listening to the jovial singing and laughing of the cooks from the kitchen, which drowned out the Jesus-themed radio that was playing. I kept looking over to the bakery cabinets, wanting to have a sweet tooth, but on this day the baked goods seemed like an afterthought. Of the four or five customers that came in to grab takeout while I was sitting here, everyone went for hot meals. When one lady from Grenada spotted me eating my oil down, she asked me about it and was quite proud that I had ordered and enjoyed the dish. She and her companion ordered one to go, and if it were not for the scarves and hats and winter coats we were all putting on to leave, it could have felt like our own version of the island party.

CANARSIE Brooklyn

8021 Flatlands Avenue