Pakiza

PAKISTAN 🇵🇰

[COVID-19 UPDATE: The few tables inside have been removed for now, but the steam table operates daily as it always has, and takeout is as fresh as ever.]

For a good chunk of the city's restaurants, the pandemic has hit them with a vigor that appears unlikely to subside anytime soon. Most that want to forge the path forward have adapted as best they can, building outdoor seating areas and more robust delivery systems.

On a recent hot day, kulfi served as immediate relief.

But then there are also certain sectors that seem almost unaffected, besides the annoyances everyone faces to be outside their own home. The steam table joints up and down this section of Coney Island Avenue still have all of their spots full of freshly prepared meals that both the neighborhood and working taxi drivers pop in quickly for throughout the day and night.

If you arrive by car to a place like Lahori Chilli or Pakiza, yellow and green will occupy most spaces out front, and many onto each of the side streets closest. Certainly there are bottom lines that are not seen when something like this is said, but frankly it is a brief glimmer of hope to witness business still going ok for some.

At Pakiza, most of the steam table offerings are available in two sizes, a small for $6 and a large for $12. A recent visit was able to procure large portions of haleem and biriyani and a small lamb curry, annotated in the photo below. Most orders will also throw in a container of lettuce and onions as well as a good portion of raita, a yogurt-based condiment full of cucumber, mint, and coriander.

The lamb curry ($6, small portion) is definitely worthy of a large order, which has already been noted for next time. Grab some naan ($1.50 each) for use with their also excellent haleem ($12, large order), a spicier than usual version of the barley, lentil, and shredded chicken stew. The workaday biriyani ($12, large portion) satisfied just fine, but of the three it could have been the one ordered in a smaller quantity.

🇵🇰🇵🇰🇵🇰
KENSINGTON Brooklyn

1032 Coney Island Avenue

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Radhuni Sweets & Restaurant

BANGLADESH 🇧🇩

At some point around four years ago, the popular restaurant named Sugandha shuttered and the space at 483 McDonald Avenue underwent major renovations to become even more popular (and larger) Radhuni Sweets & Restaurant. The steam tables and all food were pushed to the back near the kitchen and the space was opened up for much more seating. As in other Bangladeshi spots in Bangladeshi neighborhoods around town, Radhuni feels like a community center at times, busy with men drinking tea and chatting or arguing.

It is now open 24 hours, catering to a clientele that works every shift imaginable, many of whom are taxi drivers.

The steam table and counter might seem crowded and a bit of a fight, but the staff usually is friendly to those outside of the community and will make a point to help you. Just stand near the register and it will not take long. Feel free to ask questions about the food and come up with a good plan of action. Make an order, pay if they ask (sometimes you will pay after), and grab a seat. The water is already at the table and a small plastic cup will arrive with your selections if you have not been given it already.

High turnover makes the chicken rolls ($2, above, chopped up) and samosas ($1, above) always fresh and really good. If they know you are sitting down to eat in house, they will slice it up for you.

The soft, pillowy mountain that is beef tehari ($8, above) is the kind of dish that is hard to finish in one sitting. It also is sort of stunning in its simplicity despite having the ability to get a "holy shit!" when you eat that first bite. Those chutneys they offer on the side are both good with this, but it does not need them in the end.

I can never pass up a good haleem ($5, below), and the one here is fantastic especially when you consider the price. Paired with a piece of naan ($1, below) fresh from the oven, it's an incredible meal. The dish is full of so many earthy flavors like wheat, barley, and lentils, but also fatty meats and spicy peppers. The dish is cooked for hours until it becomes thick and is easy to pick up with pieces of the bread.

Radhuni also has an amazing breakfast deal consisting of naan or paratha with your choice of two items from sooji halwa, mixed vegetables, chana dal, and aloo bhaji. It is hard to go wrong here, as multiple visits have been rewarded with many fine dishes, including but not limited to the following:

Vegetable and spicy tuna pakoras.

Chicken tikka.

Beans, bitter melon, and potato bharta.

🇧🇩🇧🇩🇧🇩

KENSINGTON Brooklyn
483 McDonald Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Old Baku

AZERBAIJAN 🇦🇿

The night our group of eight spent at Old Baku is still a blur. On one of those first freezing nights of winter, we opened the door and found an empty room with booths and not much else. It seemed unheated, and unwelcoming. Thankfully the host that greeted us walked us through this space, past the kitchen which was open to the frigid outside air in a courtyard, and into their cozy back dining room. A few tables had filled up before us, and some live music had already begun.

Temperatures were appropriate here, so everyone took off their coats and dug into the menu. What was decided on, and what eventually arrived had only about 50% in common, but the meal was enjoyed. Other patrons began to dance after some shots, and this brick-walled space became almost magical as the rhythm of the music increased.

Disclaimer: The ordering process was difficult here. The eight of us and our many shared languages unfortunately did not overlap with any languages spoken by the staff. We did our best, and unfortunately did not get exactly what we ordered. My hunch is that this fell somewhere between honest mistakes and upselling/overcharging a big group, as sometimes we had to send back things they brought two of when only one was ordered. If this language problem is similar with your group, it might be recommended to write down a list of the food you want and hand it to them for a record.

Like I said at the beginning, things are a bit of a blur so there is not much more of a review. Here is a look at the foods we had:

This place has an excellent vibe and spirit, and I hope the next time I go we can get it right.

🇦🇿 🇦🇿 🇦🇿

KENSINGTON Brooklyn

115 Ditmas Avenue

Mondayoff by Plant Love House

THAILAND 🇹🇭

From start to finish, Coney Island Avenue is one of the city's most amazing streets for food, with cultures spanning the globe. Concentrations of South Asian and Eastern European are dusted with an assortment of extras like Austrian and Turkish. Completely new to the avenue now is a new Thai restaurant by the Plant Love House team.

Mondayoff had a long period of teasing from their social media accounts, with photographic updates coming frequently. Given the fact that LOOK by Plant Love House in Prospect Heights is so good, it was exciting to see their expansion. Unfortunately they opened on the day I went on an extended vacation to México, so trying their foods had a to wait just a bit.

Over about a dozen visits to LOOK, it was noticed that some dishes could be slightly unstable, not performing to their highest degree on every sitting. The talented mother of the PLH family seems to be focusing her energies here now, as she was seen on each visit we made. Probably not by coincidence, the food here is top notch.

The not-too-sweet Thai iced coffee ($3)

With most of the fresh ingredients imported from Thailand everything on offer seems light and crisp, especially the yum pak boong grob ($12, below). On the menu it is described as a watercress salad, but this is slightly misleading as "pak boong" actually refers to water morning glory. The confusion might be due to the fact that this aquatic vegetable is also sometimes called Chinese watercress. Do not be deterred, the dish is delicious.

In addition to the crispy fried pak boong, which is definitely the star of the show, there are over 10 ingredients in the bowl, all adding their own unique textures and tastes. Shrimp, minced pork, crispy shallot, red onions, cilantro, and peanuts are all dressed with chili and lime.

Always a big fan of the num tok at LOOK, an order here of the pig's blood soup was a no-brainer. Guay tiao num tok ($13, below) is full of deep colors and richness, prepared elegantly, and slightly better here if that is even possible. The noodles underneath are cooked to perfection, and just like everything else can be ordered to the spice level of your choosing. Do be aware that items run quite a bit spicier than your standard neighborhood Thai spot.

Having seen amazing presentations of gai yang bai toey ($17, below), spotting it on a New York City menu was very exciting. The "bai toey" refers to the preparation style that wraps and cooks the meat in a pandan leaf which is then opened up after serving. Unfortunately this is not how the dish comes out here, the grilled chicken simply over a small leaf.

Without the expectation, everything would have been amazing as the dish that did arrive was beautiful and the chicken very good. The som tum (green papaya salad) that accompanies the chicken is very strong with slightly sweet peanut tastes eventually overwhelmed by chili peppers. Both the chicken and papaya salad are best eaten with the sticky rice.

On a second visit, noodle soups were the focus. Yen ta fo ($13, below) was never tried at Plant Love House but excellent. Translating loosely to "pink noodle soup," the bean curd paste is what actually gives the bowl its famous color. Shrimp, fish balls, and tofu make up the heartiness over the wider noodles.

Even better is the num prik phow tom yum goong yai ($17, below), Mondayoff's modernized version of a Thai classic hot and sour soup. When Thai dishes are at their best, perfect combinations of salty, sour, sweet, and spicy are all grabbing your attention at once and this bowl of noodles does it quite well. Ask for a side plate to disassemble the jumbo shrimp and add its head and guts to the broth for even more flavor.

This may be the one time in history that bacon actually detracts from a dish, added here for what seems to be novelty. If ordered again, it would be omitted and hopefully they decide to do that themselves soon.

If you like spicy dishes but are unsure if you can handle the top level spiciness here, ask for the already spicy medium versions of soups and get more chili sauce and dried red pepper flakes on the side to add as necessary.

Mondayoff is the perfect refuge from this busy intersection of Coney Island Avenue, peaceful and soothing inside. The light blues and beiges bring to mind a modern country residence and do not really speak of the cuisine coming from the kitchen, but this is all secondary to the legendary cooking of this family that started in Elmhurst, Queens and moved operations to set up their (hopefully) growing empire in Brooklyn.

🇹🇭 🇹🇭 🇹🇭

KENSINGTON Brooklyn

752 Coney Island Avenue

Chabba BBQ

AFGHANISTAN 🇦🇫

Years ago when Chabba first found a spot in my notes, it was completely Afghani, one of two spots on a strip full of South Asian joints in a South Asian neighborhood. Bengalis and Pakistanis would wander past and the place did not get much business. I noticed some time ago that the menu adapted to reflect this and had less desire to go, but recently made it for the first time.

When interest was showed in the Afghani page of the menu, the friendly proprietor seemed to perk up and was excited to showcase the reason the restaurant came to be in the first place. Later when questioned, she said the neighborhood demanded more South Asian tastes on the menu and this forced her to add the small lunch buffet and greatly shorten the unpopular Afghani items.

To be honest, the place was still not very crowded during a weekday lunch at 12:30. Two men were eating at a small table in front when I entered, speaking quietly together. I was seated in a large empty back room used for banquets and parties with bright red upholstered seats. Was this where they made their money?

The buffet itself did not look very appetizing, and was not self-serve. After inquiring about different cuts of meat (the Afghani portion of the menu was entirely meat and kebabs), it was settled that the lamb chops, the most expensive item, were the highlight of the show. Before they were ready, the woman brought out a complimentary bowl of fruit salad (above) that seemed just a bit healthier than the macaroni salad your uncle brings to the July 4th party.

The lamb chops ($12.99, below) come on an (almost) sizzling platter, over a bed of onions. The reddish hue and nice spice reminds of tikka, and all the tender meat is easily removed from the bone. Afghan rice ($4.99, below) is sold separately but worth adding, the sweetness of raisins somehow permeating the brown basmati.

This specific rice, kabuli pulao, is the de facto national dish of Afghanistan, served with most meals when it can be afforded. The green mint chutney that arrives at the table pairs very well with it.

After the meat arrived, I was asked if I would like the "Afghan sauce." Of course this was not turned down, and turned out to be a creamy white sauce that was terrific with the lamb. If this does not make it to your table automatically, make sure to ask for it.

🇦🇫 🇦🇫 🇦🇫

KENSINGTON Brooklyn

786 Coney Island Avenue

Lahori Chilli

PAKISTAN

You have to admit it, that chili pepper in a chef's hat is pretty handsome. If this place became a chain, ascribing human form to that green chili, in the form of song and dance, is going to become great fun.

In the more near future though, are the purveyors here bragging with anthropomorphism about spice levels of their cuisine specifically, or Pakistani food in general? After five dishes, I can attest to a certain heat level running through each plate. Not the type of heat that burns your lips upon impact, but the kind you feel creeping up after a few bites and all the way until you finish the last morsel. It hangs around and causes you to pour yourself an extra two or three cups of water. It is a good feeling.

The first visit here was solo, but determined to eat more than one item, a split order was asked for. The above dishes, ground chicken, lamb curry, a piece of naan, and an unseen cup of milk tea came to the princely sum of $10.

Stacks of naan are constantly coming from the kitchen in the back, fresh and hot. Takeout orders here on Coney Island Avenue are constant, as taxi drivers stream in at all times. The restaurant is open 24 hours a day, and I would not be surprised to see bustle here at 3 or 4 in the morning when shifts were ending and men went home.

I have only traveled to East Pakistan, but the feelings of being welcome were strong here just as there. This restaurant is set up for people that know the food, but they seem genuinely pleased to slow down and explain the options to someone like myself that might need to ask a few questions. On a second visit I was not alone, and the two of us were treated with even more care by the staff members that seemed to recognize me from the first meal. I am certainly not fussy about service, but this feeling of warmth was palpable, and special.

On that second visit, we asked for a split portion of chicken tikka ($3, above), some of the most moist and juicy versions I have ever seen. Each meal will also include a small bowl of yogurt chutney with cilantro and mint that pairs well with the chicken.

Whenever I am in the mood for naan lately as I was before this meal, I also tend to think about haleem ($6, below), the dish of lentils and grains and always so full of spices. The "stew" here is made with chicken, and the puffy warm pieces of naan pick it up perfectly.

Heat levels rise even further with the goat curry ($5, below), a spicy, oily, tender dish. The perfect brown and red visuals in the pan made it an easy order on this chilly afternoon.

Having put much of the order in containers to go after thoroughly stuffing ourselves, the very kind woman in charge of the dining room brought us a small bowl of dessert with two spoons and a terrific smile. The light green half was our favorite, a pistachio flavored custard with very mild sweetness.

There are so many South Asian steam table restaurants in this area of Coney Island Avenue that it may be hard to select one. I initially chose this because of the good crowd gathered in the front making orders and the parked cabs outside, and after two visits have only confirmed this initial impression with two very good meals. But on top of a very happy belly, the overall good-hearted nature of the spot stands out and makes it a worthy place to come for a meal at anytime of day or night.

KENSINGTON Brooklyn

1026 Coney Island Avenue

Werkstatt

AUSTRIA 🇦🇹

Werkstatt showed up on my radar when I started doing research for the summer of football earlier this year. Austrian places in the city tend to be on the fancy side, and this new Brooklyn pub seemed the perfect counterpoint to them, a casual spot to order a Stiegl and cheer on Austria in the Euro Cup. Unfortunately their hours were not conducive to European football hours, and the country flamed out fast anyways.

Thankfully the positives of the place stand up for meals and beers, as I found out back in late spring. My apologies for not bringing this review forward earlier, it got lost in a crack.

For an appetizer, a friend and I ordered the risotto ($17, below) from the mains menu and split it. The creamy rice has a vegetable-derived broth and is served with Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, and leeks.

Our other orders were more typically Austrian, starting with the pork shoulder ($18, below), a dish on the specials board that day. The thick cut of meat is topped with a thin gravy and served with delicious bread dumplings.

It would not have seemed like a complete meal with the gulasch with spätzle ($18, below), tender chunks of braised beef in a very rich, dark gravy. The typical pasta accompaniment is done well, and combination bites cut down nicely on the richness.

With schnitzels and a very good soft pretzel, the bar and beer list becomes even more tempting for games, even if the small screen might never actually be tuned to the right channel. A spot in the window is usually enough distance between a serious drinker and a dining room sometimes full of the kids and strollers of Kensington. Werkstatt is a good addition to Coney Island Avenue, which does not see much European culture these days.

🇦🇹🇦🇹🇦🇹
KENSINGTON Brooklyn

509 Coney Island Avenue

I COULD USE YOUR HELP

Eat the World NYC is and always has been free. No advertisements block the content or pop over what you read. If this website has helped you explore your city and its wonderful cultures a little better and you have the means to contribute, please consider doing so. Eat the World NYC is a labor of love, but also takes a lot of money and time everyday to keep running.

You can Venmo me @JAREDCOHEE or click here to send PayPal donation, no account is necessary. Thank you!