>> Argo Restaurant | Eat the World NYC

25 November 2018

Argo Restaurant


There are no shortage of full-service Georgian restaurants in this general area of Brooklyn, but after about a year of life Argo is putting itself near the top of the borough's most beloved. In the space once occupied by Turkish bakery Güllüoglu, big families and parties seem to be filling up the restaurant on weekends.

As expected, there is not a ton of atmosphere or charm to talk about, so let's just dive right into the meal.

Big meals in Brooklyn's former Soviet restaurants always start with a selection of cold appetizers. All three we ordered included walnut sauce in some form, including the kuchmachi ($10, above), a plate of chicken livers, hearts, and gizzards also covered with pomegranate seeds. Folks with an aversion to those words might not find this as unappealing as they think as all the offalness is very mild.

These same toppings are applied to the nigvziani badrijani ($10, below), simply called "eggplant with nuts" on the English menu. These are thinly sliced eggplant wrapped around a walnut paste, and absolutely a must eat.

Satsivi ($12, below) is another cold dish of chicken hunks served in a walnut sauce, this time much more liquified. It is full of garlic and other herbs and a true Georgian classic. With plenty of sauce always leftover, you will want to dip your bread in here as well to get the bowl clean.

The next arrivals at the table were done were our two bread orders. The famous adjaruli khachapuri ($12, above) is done really well here, although not so easy to share for a big group. Stir up the egg into the hot cheese when the bread arrives at the table and tear off pieces to dip in the mixture.

Somewhat disappointing was the good-looking lobiani ($10, below), a bean-filled bread that lacked flavor. All the breads here had very good textures.

Make sure everyone at the table has at least one of their own khinkali ($9 for 6, below), an oversized, thick-skinned Georgian dumpling. These can be served with pork or lamb with beef, both of which are good. Bite a hole in one side of the skin and do your best to suck the juices out without losing any into your lap or on the table. Georgians do not eat the top "knot" and leave a pile of them on their plate as evidence of how many they've eaten.

On the menu, the chanakhi ($14, above and below) is described simply as a lamb stew but this does not quite do it justice. The savory stew is full of flavor and comes served with a freshly baked bread enveloping the top. Cut this away to find the meat and everything else, but use the pieces in your bites as well.

A nice change in flavor profiles is available with the chakapuli ($14, below), another stew of veal, tarragon, and greens that has a wonderful sour taste. This comes from tkemali, a sauce made from sour plums.

Ojakhuri ($15, below) looks like a pile of fried potatoes but actually has many pieces of fried meat hidden within as well. Available in lamb or pork, the dish is a revelation and even the potatoes are not left behind as they are somehow perfect.

Chekmeruli ($14, below) is described as chicken in garlic sauce, although the sauce is more milk and butter it seems. Either way, it's very tasty although your enjoyment might depend on getting a nice piece of dark meat rather than a dry breast.

Argo is doing things really well, we are already thinking about our next big meal here.

Argo Restaurant Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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