Cali Ají

COLOMBIA 🇨🇴

The perfect time to experience Cali Ají is during a weekday lunch, when the casual café is running on all cylinders. In a working class neighborhood full of auto shops, NYC Transit depots, and close to LaGuardia, these are the customers who are the regulars. Colombians working in these professions seem to be the demographic of the restaurant, those with a little grease on their clothes and monster appetites.

For this reason, it was crystal clear before even sitting down that a meal here was going to be completely satisfying. The menu is full of items ordered a la carte, but also contains a page with daily lunch specials for $10. On most days this includes some type of soup, rice and beans, and a choice of meat from the steam table. On a recent Tuesday, the sopa de tostones (below) was chosen, although the delicious albondigas that were paired with it were greedily eaten before a photograph could be thought about.

The small space is mostly filled by six four-tops and hungry humans, often to capacity with pairs sitting with strangers. No one seems to mind though, as dishes are served rapidly and turnover is high. Taking the time to linger around for longer than most, the natural rhythms of the café were really enjoyable to observe. Is everyone in a good mood here?

Having been to Cali some years ago, it was natural to want to feel the connection. The instant feelings of togetherness and family. People smiling and enjoying their day. Unlike Colombia's other big cities, Santiago de Cali is closer to sea level and therefore hot and humid, and more intense. But alas, each time the door would swing open to let those chilly winter-approaching airs inside, the feelings snapped back to New York City.

The plates that are available all day mostly come in the range of $10-13 and are also a massive value. This sobrebarriga a la criolla ($13, above) was a pleasant surprise, flank steak almost swimming in a lovely sweetened and fruity tomato sauce. Sobrebarriga translates literally to "over the belly" and just refers to this cut of meat. It always runs the risk of being too tough, but here it is executed quite well, with minimal chewiness.

Joining the steak is a few potatoes, some yuca, and a wonderful slice of plantain. One of a few prototypical Colombian favorites. For a nice kick, a little "Cali ají" if you will, grab the squeeze bottles and top up the sauce to your liking. Unless you work in the construction field and absolutely destroy your plates like many did during this visit, expect leftovers galore.

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EAST ELMHURST Queens
98-15 Astoria Blvd

Map of Eat the World NYC:

J & C Delicias

COLOMBIA 🇨🇴

For the past few years, a walk by J & C during lunch or dinner has always seen the place at various levels of busy, between moderately and very. This enthusiasm of the neighborhood's Colombian community made me want to give it a shot, but somehow it never happened until recently.

The best way to do this is with a big group. It is not a large restaurant, but they are friendly and will accommodate. The menu has all the favorites and it is nice to try as much as possible.

The plates of empanadas ($1.50 each) above include all three of their choices, beef, chicken, and cheese. Colombian empanadas are made of a "crust" of masarepa cornmeal, similar to what they use for arepas. Ingredients are surrounded with this and then deep fried. While they are fine to eat on their own, don't be stingy with the house made ajis they have available for heat.

Colombian style ceviche de camarones.

Tostones mixtos.

Tostones de chicharrón y guacamole.

Arepa paisa.

Arepa mixta.

Picada J & C.

Pechuga caribeña.

Bandeja paisa.

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JACKSON HEIGHTS Queens

37-61 79th Street

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Los Verdes

COLOMBIA 🇨🇴

A quick Colombian-style perro ($6.25, below), courtesy of Los Verdes in Sunnyside. This chain is all over southern Florida but has just this branch in New York City. Other Colombian favorites like arepas, and crossover Venezuelan classics like patacón sandwiches and cachapas are available here as well. This dog features mozzarella cheese oozing out (see cross section below), bacon, smashed potato chips, and a quail egg. Very satisfying, much more so than the famous NYC dog to be honest.

This comes covered with their house "rosada" sauce, a mixture of ketchup and mayonnaise, but be sure to try the other house sauces as well including garlic, pineapple, and "green."

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SUNNYSIDE Queens

46-26 Greenpoint Avenue

Map of Eat the World NYC:

Los Toldos

COLOMBIA 🇨🇴

Has Los Toldos existed since before any of us were on Earth? Somehow it has this feeling, a charming place full of regulars and Colombian home cooking right in the center of a Colombian stronghold on Northern Boulevard. The interior is a hodgepodge of tables bought at one place, chairs at another, and a designer using wood and thatch to replicate a feeling back home. Three bar stools that must have come from a diner going out of business complete the look, but honestly it is the massive plates of food that everyone is focusing on here.

When the first visit was made about a year ago, decisions were based on how many items could be on just one plate for a solo diner. Colombia's solution to this is always the bandeja paisa, a plate of food born from more modern interpretations of peasant diets, so full of protein for someone working hard all day.

The most prominent piece of a bandeja montañera ($12, above), as the variation is called here, is always the curving arc of chicharrón, a long hunk of pork skin fried to perfection. Red beans cooked with pork and rice lay the foundation and are covered with a fried egg, sweet plantain, thin cuts of beef, and a small arepa. It is advisable to choose the fresh juice with water and not milk when eating such a dish.

When the chance finally came, the cazuela los toldos ($20, below) stuck out from the long list of seafood dishes offered. They also offer the familiar coconut milk-based cazuela de mariscos, but since they stuck their name on this one, it seemed worth a try.

Nothing within the casserole was a disappointment, with fresh hunks of shrimp, squid, and fish throughout in a thin but very tasty soup. It pairs perfectly with rice, and would seem a no-brainer on a return visit.

The lomo de cerdo a la plancha ($12, below) also popped out and was ordered, a thin steak of pork that is griddled. This tasted very good, but may have remained cooking just a bit too long.

It and many dishes come with a plate of their porky red beans and white rice, which pair well with everything and possibly call for a second side order for those that love beans.

Daily rotating soup specials seem to be very popular here, an economical meal priced $6.50 for a small bowl and $7.50 for a large. Good fruit shakes made fresh are only $3, a steal really. Try the lulo, a citrus-y tasting fruit only available in Colombia, Ecuador, and Panamá.

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JACKSON HEIGHTS Queens

84-01 Northern Blvd

Pariscien Bakery

COLOMBIA

What initially attracted me to this Colombian bakery, which looks like all the rest, was a small home-printed sheet taped to the window saying "Tenemos Tamales Tolimenses." Usually when I have no idea what something is, my interest in trying it goes up, which was the case here. I grabbed one to go, noted the preparation instructions from the chef, and cooked it in a steamer at home for 30 minutes. They will also cook them here for you if you eat in house, but it is recommended to call ahead.

In Colombia, especially in mountainous Andean regions like Tolima, it is part of life to have a breakfast tamal like this and a cup of hot chocolate. While open throughout the afternoon, Pariscien is noticeably more busy in the morning hours, with a full breakfast menu spanning more than Colombian food. And as New York City is New York City, Colombians are joined by Ecuadorians, Dominicans, and Puerto Ricans of the neighborhood.

Anyone that orders the tamal (above, wrapped, and below sliced open after cooking), is rewarded with a creamy consistency and alternating sweet and savory tastes. You will sometimes find large pieces of potatoes and carrots in this style of tamal, but this chef has pureed everything with the corn. Elsewhere inside is on-the-bone chicken, not shown in the cross section.

The display cases seem to be the most active place in the morning, with arepas, pan de bono, buñuelos, and aborrajados, a deep fried plantain stuffed with cheese. If that typical breakfast eater mentioned above has a larger than usual appetite, they might take one of the other items in addition to their tamal and coffee. The simple arepas here are fantastic.

"One of each, please"

On our last two visits, we have shared the mini bandeja paisa ($8.95, below). "Mini" is definitely misleading, as even the small version of the plate is gigantic by the standards of most appetites. Centered around terrific Colombian white rice and beans is thinly cut steak, sausage, chicharrón, a fried egg, and a fried sweet plantain.

For a sweeter breakfast, try the arepa de choclo ($1.75 each, below), a sweet corn version of the arepa without cheese. This looks somewhat like a cookie, but is soft, moist, and dense.

If you make it here in the morning for a Colombian breakfast, plan some extra time to order the tamales tolimenses and hang out enjoying your food with the atmosphere. The coffee is light and won't wake you up, but the mood is thoroughly New York City and worth lingering around to consume.

SUNSET PARK Brooklyn

4823 4th Avenue

Los Amigos Chimichurry

COLOMBIA 🇨🇴

After 8 or 9pm every night, on the south side of the street, you can find one of the best food trucks in the city parked and serving gobs of adoring locals. Once people are starting to get drunk in nearby bars, this truck is always thronged with walk up and drive up service. Take a look into nearby vehicles and you will see couples and groups of four all scarfing down their own platters. Come rain or shine, Los Amigos deliver.

The people here may seem like they are ignoring you, but they have a really good knack for seeing things out of the corner of their eye and keeping you in order. More often than not, an arriving customer will just yell out the bald man's name and their order. Since you and I are not on such familiar terms, just make your way to the counter and get someone's attention. Don't worry, you won't be skipped.

There is no menu here, but what I recommend starting with is what is frying in the pans you see below. It is beef that has been marinating for who knows how long, and a layer of green chimi is thrown on top for good measure when it cooks up.

No matter what, your order here is super fresh. The meat you are eating was raw less than ten minutes ago. I find this beef the tastiest, and also the easiest to eat and share on the street since you will most likely be eating while standing. They also have thin slices of beef marinated slightly differently and available like the platter below ($8) or on sandwiches. The platter comes with fried plantains mashed fresh on the truck, and one of two types of rice, either white or a more sweet Caribbean style brown with beans.

On weekends, ask about the delicious seafood soup they may or may not be cooking, if you are in the mood.

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CORONA Queens

108-40 Roosevelt Avenue

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La Pequeña Colombia

COLOMBIA 🇨🇴

For Latin American restaurants, La Pequeña Colombia is sort of a fancy place, with dark wood interior decorations and low lighting dominating the dining room. Tables have cloth napkins and the servers are in formal attire. But luckily it is Colombian to its core, with casual, friendly service and very good food.

I couldn't resist the arepa con queso ($3.95, below), which is very crisp on the outside and chewy within, in the style you might find in Medellín. The light cheese is browned nicely by the oven, and thoroughly enjoyable to eat. Just be clear though, you never put a sauce on an arepa.

Up close and personal with the baked cheese.

The last Colombian restaurant we visited focused on foods from the coast, while this one seems more broad. The Friday special lunch was the Bogotá specialty ajiaco ($7.95, below), a hearty potato stew. The chicken came to us on a separate plate, but is usually cut up and served in the soup.

You will also be served two small portions of cream and capers to go along with your soup. Pour as much or as little of both of these as you like and mix. The creaminess of it all and sharp tastes within will put you in touch with the Colombian blood you did not know you had.

Another lunch special is the viudo de pescado ($7.95, below), a stew that does not look that much different. Your dish comes as two parts, with the fish covered in a creamy sauce served on one plate and the stew of potatoes, plantains, and a buttery herbal broth in another bowl. Combine this as desired, not forgetting the rice.

The coffee here isn't great, so you are better off ordering a cold bottle of Aguila ($4.50), one of Colombia's lagers. Sit at the bar and enjoy it all if you are on your own, or take one of the tables when you come in a group.

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JACKSON HEIGHTS Queens

83-27 Roosevelt Avenue

I COULD USE YOUR HELP

Eat the World NYC is and always has been free. No advertisements block the content or pop over what you read. If this website has helped you explore your city and its wonderful cultures a little better and you have the means to contribute, please consider doing so. Eat the World NYC is a labor of love, but also takes a lot of money and time everyday to keep running.

You can Venmo me @JAREDCOHEE or click here to send PayPal donation, no account is necessary. Thank you!

El Fogon Costeño

COLOMBIA 🇨🇴

Colombian restaurants in the Jackson Heights and Corona neighborhoods of Queens are a dime a dozen. Whenever I am in the mood for this cuisine, I find myself going back to the same places that I know are good, but I recently decided to change that and head into a few more of the better looking locations. Personally I think that better Colombian food is to be found in New Jersey neighborhoods such as Englewood and Elizabeth. I'm hoping I can change this attitude with the right finds in Queens.

The first location I decided to descend upon in Corona is the well out-of-the-way El Fogon Costeño, a restaurant that is actually owned by Uruguayans and promises specialties from the Caribbean coast, a distinct subset of food from Colombia. The menu is large and covers most of the country's usual "hits" though, as well as a nice focus on seafood dishes.

The restaurant has a full breakfast menu which I have not tried, and being open for three meals leads me to believe that there is something special about this place, which is not only a decent distance from the majority of Colombians in Jackson Heights, but out of the way to most people in general. Economical lunch options each day are what to come for, in my opinion. Each day has a different special, priced from $6 to $8, and is plenty of food for one person.

The empanadas de carne ($1.25, above) are satisfying and not too greasy. Add the aji they give you at the table to give the meat and potatoes a little zing.

Alongside the empanadas, an arepa con huevo ($2.50, below) is a common sight on the streets in cities near the coast, especially early in the day. We tried the one here, which is very good and made me want to be enjoying it on the beach.

Also of note are the carimañolas de carne ($2, below), similar to the empanada but made with yuca. It is a simple snack also common for breakfast in the Caribbean region.

Between courses is a good time to enjoy the rest of your first Aguila and the start of your second, as well as the hodgepodge of various Colombian murals and knickknacks decorating the place that have no scheme or focus. Vallenato music plays on the sound system, sweeping you away in spirit right to the coast.

Friday is a day worth seeking out this place for, which is exactly what I did on my return visit, specifically for the sancocho El Fogon ($7, below) the special of the day. It has a mixture of meats and entrails in the hearty stew, potatoes and yuca. It is served with a plate of rice, which you can dump into the soup or take spoonfuls of and add broth, satisfying either way.

A pleasant surprise of chicken heart in the sancocho!

The rest of the menu is expansive and difficult to select just one thing. Having a group of five or six would be a real asset here. On our first visit, my Colombian friend and I were excited to try the sobrebarriga a la criolla ($13.95, below), a grilled steak with a sauce dominated by red and green peppers. It is mild despite its appearance, but full of flavor.

We asked for a side of coconut rice ($5, below) but they can swap it for the regular white rice for just $1 extra. This is a good order, another specialty of the Caribbean coast.

When we asked for some recommendations from the seafood menu, something we completely neglected, the server mentioned that the cazuela ($17.95), a seafood stew, is excellent. On our next visit, we will have to tackle this portion of the menu, hopefully with a big group.

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CORONA Queens

109-12 Northern Boulevard