The place is named after a word we usually associate with Indian cuisine, two stars of David grace each side of the name on the awning, and a Russian Orthodox onion dome protrudes from it. What awaits us inside? Kosher Bukharian Uzbek and Tajik food, of course.
It only took one visit, the first of many for sure, for me to know that this was my favorite of the city's Kosher Bukharian. It has a good feel to it, the place is not lit up with fluorescent bulbs like most of its competitors, and the food is just as solid. Even at lunch, groups of Russians are three bottles in at this BYOB restaurant, and the smells from the oven are divine.
Grab a servers attention while an interesting Russian house dance track plays, apparently in homage to a night in Dushanbe, as you will also see the stars of an Tajik sky painted on the ceiling. My starter was the oddball of the meal, the mixed salad ($5, below). The "special dressing" in the description is apparently sugar, as the whole thing is laced with it. Unfortunately you cannot take this dressing on the side.
The manty ($5, below) seem a bit tired, but are very good. The homemade dough is always the best part, and has done a terrific job soaking up the juices of the meat inside.
The soups here are top-notch, try the lagman ($4.50, below) if you are in the mood for noodles. The soup is hearty with meat and vegetables, and has both thick and thin noodles.
It would be a shame not to try something from the tandoori oven, so get a few shish kebabs while you dine, ordered individually. Both the Lola Fergany-style kebab ($2.75, below top) and lamb ($2.75, below bottom) are great, but my favorite would be the Lola, a ground meat that is laced with spices and succulently greasy.
Leave a little extra time to get the server's attention again to get your check prepared, and you might as well think ahead to bring correct change or you will be waiting for quite a long time! Don't let that sour your meal though, the food is worth putting up with this for!
99-04 63rd Road, Queens, NY