04 May 2011

L'asso



There are a few ways to approach your meal at L'asso (the ace). You can sit down with friends and share a large pie, share a few medium ones, enjoy a full meal including salads and pastas, or sit at the bar at lunch for a slice on your own. I've done a few of them, and here is what I think.

The view from the bar.

Sitting down at the bar seems like a good idea, but unfortunately requires you to pretend you do not care about the comfort of your legs. You get a nice view of the oven and pizza preparations though, and good service as if you were at a table. Slices are offered at lunch and happy hour, and your selections depend on what you see in the window. Usually there is a margherita pie ready, and that slice (below) will set you back $2.50.


This slice is not for me. It takes two or three to make a meal as it is very dainty, but that's ok... it's the style here. The sauce is sort of so-so, although the cheese is very good. It amazes me how fast this pie cooks, it's in the over for only a few minutes and comes out boiling. Process is fun to watch.

If you are having a meal with friends, the salads are all very well done. Try the arugula salad ($15, below), which like the others gives a decent portion to a group of four. It's topped with ricotta and has pear, candied walnuts, and a nice honey drizzle over it all.


Where L'asso really shines, and something I was lucky enough to enjoy, is their offering of "New York style" deep dish. I can only eat a gut-busting Chicago deep dish about once a year, but these are much lighter, picking it up is not like weight lifting. The crust is airy and not so dense as its second city rival.


Not every pizza is available in deep dish form, and it takes much longer to prepare, so call ahead if you are pressed for time. The veggie pie (above) comes with the sauce on the side, so you can enjoy its green-ness before smothering I suppose. The albondiga (below) was the winner, with delicious homemade meatballs hidden within.


Covered by grated ricotta salata was the L'asso supreme (below), which had sausage, mushrooms, and mozzarella as well.


L'asso also knows their market, and does things to cater to it. The aforementioned happy hour is popular, and they are also open for weekend brunch with unlimited cocktails, and you can get slices late night on weekends. At any time you go, it is possible to get good craft beers (as well as your lighter standards) on draught.

192 Mott Street, New York NY

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