>> Sin Dulce Bakery | Eat the World NYC

06 April 2021

Sin Dulce Bakery


COVID-19 UPDATE: The restaurant provides indoor dining and a brisk takeout business.

EDITOR'S NOTE: Written by Joseph Gessert, photographed by Liv Dillon.

Port Chester, the last town in West Chester before I-95 crosses over into Connecticut, is the most diverse town in the county. Its downtown has gone through a familiar pattern of abandonment, revitalization by immigrants, and modest gentrification.

Despite some fancier restaurants and a renovated warehouse building advertising luxury loft living, restaurants serving the immigrant community still proliferate. Mexican stalwart Sin Dulce sits within two blocks of restaurants serving food from Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, El Salvador, Guatemala, and much more.

Tacos árabes ($4 each, above) are not from the trompo here, but worth a try regardless. Pork is cooked in a lemon juice marinade and served with chipotle salsa and sauteed onions in a flour tortilla. The citrus cuts very nicely through the salsa and onions, and the tortillas appear to be handmade.
A burrito de cabeza ($8.50, below) presents rich head meat that is well-balanced with the other components. Yes there is lettuce, but the protein dominates, and flavors are excellent. Other meat options include brain and ear, meats generally neglected at US Mexican restaurants but here doing a steady business.

After your meal you would be well-served to follow up on those protein options across the street at the La Placita supermarket. The meat counter offers a beautiful array of sausages, including multiple chorizos (all $5.99 a pound). The Mexican and Colombian varieties are more familar, and about what you would expect (spicy and fatty, respectively).
More unusual in US markets are the chorizo parrillero and chorizo uruguayo. Both are lighter-colored and more mildly-flavored than their northern counterparts. The parrillero is heavy on the herbs, while the uruguayo is more subtle, with garlic and maybe a little wine in the mix. Also on offer is an Argentinian morcilla (also $5.99 a pound), a blood and rice sausage that provides a very nice contrast of texture and flavor compared to its meat counter neighbors.

For both restaurants and market, Port Chester is well worth a stop the next time you’re driving north. Amidst the bland gentility of many of the surrounding communities, this one is a gem.


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