>> Oaxaca Pizzeria Deli & Taqueria | Eat the World NYC

29 July 2019

Oaxaca Pizzeria Deli & Taqueria


Since around the 1990's, Oaxacan folks moving to the east coast of the United States have settled into tight knit communities together, often with those from the same small towns back home. This is usually a product of language, for many indigenous people from the Mexican state have made this change and do not have the Spanish to fall back on immediately like many of their countrymen and women. In this general area, the largest groups are in New Brunswick, NJ and up the Hudson River in Poughkeepsie, but a smaller group has settled in and around Port Richmond, Staten Island.

One long-running establishment serving Oaxacan style gorditas, tlacoyos, and other hints of back home is actually a pizzeria of sorts. Like many recent arrivals, making pizzas for New Yorkers was an entry level idea that grew into more. Since this space already had the oven from a previous tenant, pies are still made with all the care you would expect, it is just that some come with the toppings you more readily associate with antojitos mexicanos.

On a first visit a while back, the limitation of one stomach made a full pie out of reach as they do not sell slices of their specialties like the pizza ranchera which comes with avocado and chorizo or the pizza azteca with slices of bistec and cactus. Instead the desire for Oaxacan cheese won the day and an order of their massive taco alambre ($4, above) was placed.

Because of the queso fresco, the taco alambre reminds you of something of an open-faced quesadilla. It comes piled with bistec, ham, bacon, grilled peppers and onions, and is all topped with the cheese. A small condiment bar faces the comfortable dining area and includes three homemade salsas, radishes, limes, and pickled jalapeños.

A second visit included reinforcements and finally a chance to try the pizza. As seen above, this is done in the style of New York City with a thin crispy golden crust and slightly puffed up rim. Two prices are given for each pie, but are not small and large as might be guessed. "Grande o extra grande" were the options available, as everyone chuckled at the order for a "pequeña." The 16" grande pizza estilo Oaxaca ($17, above and below) was indeed large and served with all the good bits of carnitas.

A few slices of jalapeño are visible, but these peppers are also somehow infused into the sauce as each bite has a nice kick to it, the perfect complement to really good quality carnitas. Pizza "purists" will always have their say about such things, but beautiful creations like this deserve their time in the sun just as much as pepperoni and sausage.

As this pizza got smaller and smaller, the restaurant hummed with customers mostly making takeout orders. A small mountain of salsas were prepared in small to go portions for the coming days, and the relaxed nature of the place was perfect for grabbing a drink out of the fridge and stretching out your legs. A few customers sat down with their tacos or sopes, topped generously with their meat of choice.

It is very clear why Oaxaca Pizzeria has stayed a popular option on this stretch of Castleton Avenue. Return visits will be necessary to give everything a chance.

Unfortunately, this went unused.

Oaxaca Pizzeria Deli & Taqueria Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

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