Fort Defiance is in the news, it's not off anyone's radar these days, despite its "off the beaten path" location in Red Hook. That's why a nice weekday afternoon lunch visit was perfect, when the place is decidedly relaxed, allowing it to be just as quirky as it wants to be.
Thankfully, I did not take the bait at nearby IKEA with its 50 cent hot dogs and came with my full appetite, as the famous muffuletta sandwich ($10, below) was a mountain of various pork slices and cheese, slathered with a beautiful olive spread. The bread made the thing impossible to eat a full piece, you had to approach it at angles alternatively from the top and bottom.
A perfect companion is their homemade lemonade ($2.50, below), which is served either "still" or "sparkling." The bubbles sharpen and cover up the lemonade's best parts, so order it still and enjoy all the dark woods and expressions of warmth that the interior of the place has to offer.
The rest of the lunch menu is filled with sandwiches like the Niçoise tuna ($9) and peanut butter and jelly ($5), while the dinner menu focuses on plates of meat with vegetables and rotates week by week.